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Access panels like these are a tidy solution

@JohnD If they've plastered to the floor, they've done that for air tightness which you're immediately undermining by breaking it out. I also don't know why you'd bother battening it out where you could just run the cables under the plaster.

He's probably thinking there might be a gap at the bottom you can run your cables in, unlikely on a wet plastered wall though. Good luck! If they're still building on your site might be worth finding one of the plasterers and chucking him a few quid to patch it up.

Ah fair enough, that's ideal. Most cables off the shelf would have an earth core which is why I suggested 5 as you're not supposed to use the earth for anything else.

Use a 5 core flex for running to the receiver, 0.75mm or greater.

@ebee The OP's intention is perfectly acceptable in the eyes of the wiring regulations - if you think it's bad practice then that's your opinion. I personally think a bit of common sense can be applied in assessing the likelihood of someone fixing things to the wall below knee height, or adding...

If that were the case then yes 100%, but for a 38x25mm trunking you'd need to chase out about 26-28mm (which would likely still be OK with 140 thick walls). I'm confident you would get all 4 cables through a 38x16 trunking with the lid off. You might want run a leg down from each box to maximise...

Even that's a bit ropey, 10mm plaster is a guess. They do make a 16mm deep trunking. The other option would be to whip the skirting off and chase the concrete

Plaster straight onto blockwork? That's honestly quite surprising/premium for a new build, you won't be complaining when you're fixing your TV there. Double check that it's not dot and dab plasterboard when you take the faceplates off. If it is wet plaster finish, I wouldn't be chasing anything...

@JohnW2 No worries - agreed it's not a major issue I just thought it's worth pointing out that you can't make calculations based on a resistive circuit

That's because you've not bothered to read any of the prior posts in this thread. Post number 1 My first post

I thought it was fairly obvious I was talking about the ohms law transposition

Probably better make sure you've got neutrals before you get ahead of yourself.

Requirements are indeed made for these cables, if you look at regulation 522.6 you'll see that running them in prescribed safe zones is not one of them.

Just me? I'm saying I don't know how it will behave and those calculations are meaningless.

I'd be more likely to assume it's given for 230V, that's the european standard. Either way, induction hobs are far from a purely resistive load (it's in the name) so you can't assume the current drops with the voltage.

Yes, selv and pelv are another method of meeting the requirements without running within safe zones and providing RCD protection/earthed metallic containment. I'd rather not, which is why I've asked about the direction of the cable runs and floor construction. However, if the cables are going...

trv

Because they're low voltage and don't pose risk of electric shock. Is that a newly plastered wall? Is this ground floor or upstairs, and are you certain about the existing wiring going up from the sockets? What is your floor contruction?

Definitely a good idea, you want to give it the best chance of getting outside before it condenses, otherwise it'll just sit in the duct until it freezes/evaporates again