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I don't see your thermostat cable in there. I take it you have a hot water tank and wiring centre?

It should really be in a box. Can you take a picture of how much length you have on the cables currently?

I don't see a lot of difference providing the cable is securely clipped.

Wago is the usual maintenance free spec

If you cut a piece of sheet galvy/aluminium to fit within the box, fixed with faceplate screws and skimmed over it could be used as the junction box

£1100 is on the pricier side but likely includes an expensive charger like the Zappi or hypervolt. You could get a much cheaper charger with the required pen fault protection installed for probably around the £7-800 mark

Yes there will be a solution, best wait to see what turns up and take it from there.

Yes, you're only supposed to be able to touch the cable sheath, not the actual core insulation. The new one you're ordering hopefully comes with a box because the actual screw terminals would be exposed otherwise, which is much more dangerous.

That's fair enough, you may decide to call one for peace of mind anyway. Your existing installation is actually a bit naughty, you shouldn't be able to touch any of the coloured wires without removing a protective cover

Left is input, right is output.

I think we already determined that the switch is on the input side - you said it kills the unit when off - so the only important thing is that you put the brown wire going into the input side on the old unit, to the live input side on the new unit (terminal 1).

Yes, make sure you put the lives in the same way as the old one - input to input and output to output. Also make sure you isolate the power at your circuit breaker before doing anything

@ericmark I think the new unit proposed wiring allows a switch to be used but overridden in the app and vice versa. Because their current setup doesn't appear to be wired that way though, the switch will just kill the power to the unit.

Nor is the water from the boiler used, and yet it has one. You could do that, that's a thermal store. How many tappings do you have on the cylinder though? You need flow and return to boiler, and the same for radiator. If you're not using the heating coil (and not using the top draw off pipe...

Gotcha. Probably just a faulty socket then but it'd be worth flicking the power off to the garage and checking the connections in the socket.

When you say light, do you mean the red flag at the bottom? Normally the red flag isn't actually a light, it's just an indicator. It's possible the socket isn't getting power, do you have a garage circuit board or does the armoured cable come directly from the house CU?

Yes, input live to 1, output live to 3

Your head isn't doing much thinking at all if you're planning to do it without a header tank.

If the switch being off kills power to the unit, it is on the input side. If it turns the light off but you can still hear the unit clicking when you turn it on and off with the app, it's output side (probably preferable for a wifi unit). If I understand correctly you have a standard rocker...

While the above 2 comments are likely true, I'd be hesitant to do anything other than replace like for like without having (an electrician) look over the setup. Also, if the flag doesn't trip off that normally indicates that there's no power going to the socket