Search results

Does it remove the red flag when you press the red switch? With both switches on on the socket itself and the red flag showing, neither side works with a known working appliance?

Have you pressed the red button, then the blue? The blue button should bring on a red flag in the window beneath it indicating the socket should be working.

Without a cold water feed and header tank I'm pretty sure you'll airlock the system through evaporation.

Screwless faceplates can be a pain in the arse if your backboxes haven't been tightly cut out. They have a backplate behind them for the face to clip onto, which is invariably smaller than a standard socket faceplate - meaning it often won't bridge the cutout

The way I understand it, the boiler will modulate to maintain flow temp as well as possible but without a controller that tells it what flow temp to be, it'll always try to make whatever setpoint it's been set up for. The higher the temperature of your radiators, the higher the heat output - so...

You wouldn't (shouldn't) have plastered walls inside a shower

All wireless thermostats are wireless in the sense that you can move the thermostat around to wherever you want it to measure the temperature, but the receiver unit still needs wired into the boiler to tell it when to run. A Bosch specific thermostat is going to give the boiler ability to...

Yeah there's lots of different names, F&E always refers to the heating circuit tank though

No. The F&E tank is for your central heating circuit. The Cold water cistern is for your hot water cylinder. The cylinder/cold water cistern MUST have a vent pipe, the F&E tank often has a shared feed and expansion pipe which again is illegal to valve.

The pump head will be labelled on the pump or in the manufacturers documentation. The top pipe coming out of an open vented cylinder is a vent pipe which goes straight up over the cold feed tank and bends back to drop into the tank, this is to give somewhere for the hot water to expand and air...

This is open vented by the sounds of it! F&E tank level 1m above highest point in heating system (normally primary circuit return on cylinder, if you have any vertical rads bear this in mind). Tank level should also be pump head / 3 minimum higher than the circulation pump (e.g. 5m head 1.7m...

Run a cold tap and leave it running. Go around your other sinks and check the pipework, are any of them getting hot? Feel the shower valve as well, is it getting hot?

Isolate hot feed and inspect impeller, likely either damaged or melted off the driveshaft and not getting driven

Yes, that's your heating circuit pipes - flow and return. Additionally, a combi boiler needs a cold main feed and supplies the hot water main, so 2 extra pipes. Open or unvented, keeping the cylinder where it is will likely reduce install costs and provide better hot water performance.

15mm copper? Are you taking up existing floor coverings anyway? If so just chase the floors unless you have concerns about hitting existing. A single piece of protected copper pipe is never going to leak, only potential is at the joints which you'd have to make at either end anyway.

If you just want the peace of mind it may be worth taking the salamander plumber up on his quote (with your specification of only the shower to be boosted). Whether or not they are the superior pumps, he will be sorting the pipework and tank in such a fashion that there shouldn't be any issues...

I don't, I've seen @Madrab mention them in a recent thread so I assume they're good in some circumstances. However, your current under bath pump is twin ended (hot and cold), so you would need a 2 of these inline pumps connected together. They're also centrifugal which typically don't cope...

And where is the current cylinder in respect to the showers, much closer? I take it he has an ideal place to tap into the existing hot water main? Yes, the same cylinder would lose less heat if it was placed inside the house (and the heat it loses would be somewhat useful). Whether it'd be more...

Where's the boiler with respect to the cylinder and the showers? You'll need a hot water pipe for a combi to existing trunk, if that's a long way away it could take an age for the hot to pull through

Read the instructions mate