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Is that the boiler cable or the power cable.

I doubt it.

If it is indeed a RCD (people seem to use that to refer to any consumer unit switch) 80A just means it can handle 80 amps safely. Tails going through cavity walls is debatable, if it's straight through I wouldn't be concerned.

Run a new circuit or keep the gas hob.

Let's keep it civil.

Find out the voltage of your existing bulb, it'll likely be 12 or 24 VAC. Then you need to find a suitable replacement at the correct voltage (make sure it's VAC not VDC. If you can get cables between the downlights I'd recommend connecting 4 or 5 downlights to one transformer, the LEDS take...

Thanks for the detailed response, that's interesting. I remember hearing they didn't use a diverter valve but didn't put much thought into how that worked.

It can't call for heating and hot water

Might be a bit higher with laminate potentially Makes sense Pretty sure it's a combi

You might be right, I'm not totally clued up on how it talks to the boiler but surely in an ideal scenario the UFH could be running at say 40 in the autumn and 55 in the winter, or anywhere in between.

Unlikely, open up the kitchen light and take a picture of the wires in there - likely you're going to need in there anyway. Also, turn the power off if you're going to be messing about with the wires you dafty.

So you have 3 loops, not 3 separate "zones" although they could be changed to zones by fitting actuators to the manifold. However, it's likely better to leave them as manual and just tweak so that the whole house heats up evenly - this keeps it simple and reduces boiler cycling. The new hive...

I agree and just in case you weren't aware - you only need to turn one valve off to stop the flow through the radiator.

Seems very thorough honestly. I'd say you have 3 options. 1. Accept the quote and live with your taps being pumped, what are your reservations with this? 2. Ask the plumber to find a solution for just the bath and the shower, this will involve a new pipe being run from cylinder to bathroom...

Tap will wedge itself against the tile eventually

That's right yes. You want a single channel receiver (heating control only) as replacement since you have a combi.

The best bodge I can think of would be to route 10mm out of the board for the pipes, shim either side of the pipes and fix board with shim through the steel with metal self tappers (pilot drill a 4mm hole first though, the steel is thick even at the edges).

I'd assume so, it may have to be the generation before the latest one as I mentioned. That's the world we live in

That is the total energy I suspect, so includes storage heaters etc.

As @CountryFan suggests, the backplate is likely the same as some of the newer hive receivers, so it could be a case of popping the front off the old one and slotting the new one on. Isolate the power before doing this though. It's worth pointing out that the newest single channel receivers have...