Search results

If you can feed it down the cavity then no, if you have to run it outside then yes or outdoor rated cable.

If you have a socket on that external wall upstairs then that's going to be the easiest way to go. If you have a cavity wall you may be able to get a cable down it if it's not full of insulation. If not, you can drill straight out and run a cable externally but it will need to be either outdoor...

Lift the corner of the carpet to see which way the floorboards run, is your internal wall with the socket masonry or stud?

You could build up ~6 inches if you were willing to lose the height. Would also mean refitting doors and probably electrics/plumbing though.

The P wires are a thermal switch as mentioned, this is linked through the overload to the coil of the contactor. Take a picture of your starter panel

Make your pads level with each other, if you're using adjustable legs its not going to be difficult to create a slope is it? 1 in 100 is recommended (10mm per metre)

Wd40 will 100% get into any water fitting you spray it on, how damaging it is is up for debate but there's a reason it's banned by the water board on fresh water. It's a lot less likely bum juice is going to travel against the direction of flow until you have a burst

Don't use wd on water fittings unless you want to drink it.

You need to expose the boiler electrics and take note/picture of where the cable is terminated, then with a picture of the thermostat we can tell you how it's supposed to be wired up. Why are you removing the hive out of interest?

There is no advantage to using postcrete if you're not setting posts. Mixing standard concrete will be cheaper, stronger and give you more time to work.

You could drill, tap and galvie spray if you can be arsed with all that. Personally I'd just self tapper it on, a bead of silicone along the top of your plate would help.

Should be fine providing 1) existing cable between main light and transformer is disconnected and removed or taped off at both ends 2) fan terminals are big enough to accommodate a second cable, otherwise you'll need to junction box or add terminals blocks in the fan enclosure if there's space...

No, do it properly and drill a hole in the centreline of the joist. It should be between 0.25 and 0.4x the total span (so not near the end bearings and not bang in the middle). Cut the tongue off the board you need to lift and drill from the top if your ceiling hole isn't useful. Alternatively...

Why decking in the shadow of the shed?

What you can also do in this case it's leave your drill bit in and knock it out with a pipe to take it's place

Having your connections inside is always going to be better than out if you can. If you're putting a 16mm hole in buy some rigid 16mm pipe and hammer it through the hole. Silicone is not really necessary if your hole is angled so the water can't enter, once connected shove a bit of paper/kitchen...

You don't turn the heating on until you've refilled the system. You'll need to fill the rad with water first, either filling with a jug from the top or using the fill loop on the boiler

Fill loop valve looks partially open, needs to be 90 degrees to the pipe (fully horizontal). There's often one on the other end of the flexi too, make sure that's shut.

I'd suggest one like this that comes with a valve and new back nut/olive. It's unlikely you'll get the old olive to seal on the new fitting. https://www.screwfix.com/p/essentials-flexible-tap-connector-with-valve-15mm-x-1-2-x-300mm/3558g?ref=SFAppShare It does mean you'll need to get the old...

Your problem is the depth of the fittings, those elbows are probably about 2 inch deep. You'll be lucky to get that into the cavity never mind clipping it. Solder ring fittings, pipe clips, length of copper pipe and a couple of couplers, will cost about £20 and it'll be rock solid when you come...