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Use a maintenance-free junction box.

If this model needs two wires to work (like my Testboy) the signal should disappear at the break.

The switch closer to the camera seems to be a double-pole switch but the connections don’t line up with that.

Put both T&Es into the „In“ terminals and the flex into the „Out“. Better not to mix solid and stranded under one screw.

Lights out of sequence (e.g. 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8 on one side and 1-2-4-3-5-6-7-8 on the other) means swapped wires. Two or more lights on at the same time means two wires shorted together, missing light is wire open (not at all).

Usually because you want to identify a circuit without turning anything off (connect the sender to a socket and run the receiver along the MCBs in the DB).

These testers clip onto a cable and basically turn it into an aerial. You can pick up an audible signal when you get the receiver to within 50 mm or so of the cable. Great for tracing unknown cables in walls. This one looks like my Testboy 26 in a different case. It’s great but it does have one...

I do know a kid that at the tender age of four somehow managed to wedge a pair of scissors into a 13 A socket deep enough to get a shock. No idea how but it happened.

Can‘t imagine it would make any difference whatsoever. You‘ll probably need junction boxes with more than three terminals once lights are involved though, things like switched lives and strappers.

I had to replace 60 W incandescent bulbs in my lounge every year (facing north, so I have to turn the light on fairly early in winter). They were guaranteed 1000 hours, which is an average of less than three hours per day.

It means that the neutral is switched but has no overcurrent sensing.

Suspiciously looks like the RCD only protects one circuit, probably for the conservatory. I don‘t think there’s any legal requirement to update the CU when connecting a new cooker to the existing fixed wiring but personally I‘d recommend replacing the CU anyway. It’s most likely still as safe as...

I think we need to keep track of separate issues here. TN-C-S only means that a PEN conductor runs from the DNO transformer to the consumer‘s premises. This PEN is earthed at the transformer and often also along the way (PME). At some point the PEN is split into N and earth conductors. This can...

The L2 terminal on the old light was essentially a spare not connected to the light itself so you need another connector for these wires. All the other connections are identical.

The US are 100% TN-C-S. Some areas split the PEN at the meter and run neutral and earth to the main distribution board but most run the PEN (referred to as neutral and coloured white) all the way to the main DB, which has a factory link between the neutral and earth bus bars. If used as a...

Usually if the supply is a TN there’s pretty clear rules if and where the neutral is to be connected to the earth in the customer‘s house and how the PEN is to be divided into neutral and earth. These can vary even within one country. If it’s a TT supply, there’s no connection between neutral...

Swapped neutral and earth? Fixing the socket to a metal back box could easily cause an RCD trip then.

These Legrand MCBs have shrouded terminals. Check if the 63 A disconnects all power to the house. If it does you can safely remove the front cover and have a look at the wires.

I‘d argue if the cable takes the same route, serves the same load and is connected to the same MCB as the old one, it’s a repair/like for like replacement rather than a new circuit. Besides, you clearly aren‘t adding a circuit, the MCBs in your CU stay exactly the same. That means it’s not a...

As far as I know, RCDs covering multiple circuits are frowned upon by many electricians but still perfectly compliant even in a new build.