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No and not enough crawl space.

AAVs

It still all depends on the MI's. I found something that showed the orientation to be correct from what I could see but couldn't be sure it was the exact same model. This is key. Get the manual and compare.

Nope! Pipework is all hidden and besides... I know the leak is under suspended ground floor, covered throughout with wooden flooring. And I ain't pulling that up for a pressure fault that only occurs every 3 months! But I do see your joke mate ;)

I'm a heating engineer and my own system has a slow leak. I have a bottle of CT1 leak sealer in my boiler cupboard. Have been loathe to use it for 3 years now!

Quantify.

You can buy lockshields that are not union connections. They use the 1/2" tail and nut that is currently on the rad. Unions are better for rad removal when the pipework is rigidly fixed (2 fixed points). However, as said above, the new valve is a manual wheel head and not a direct replacement...

Can you add lever isolation valves at various points so you can narrow down the section that's leaking. This is the easiest way to proceed.

Use Allen key not a flat screwdriver.

Is the EV full of water?

You need to be G3 which is not a heating engineer. Even so, the MI's need to be studied first and if the install deviates from them, then that's where you would start. I don't know this brand but most horizontal UVs are not ideal.

Ah! So it's not a full UV cylinder then. An undercounter storage water heater? Does it need dialectric adaptors to Connect it to copper pipework?

OK... Leads more towards a system wide issue in that case! See what's in any mixer filters (shower valves etc). Any neighbours experiencing same thing?

Leave aerators out and give the whole DHW pipework a good flush through... Any shower valve filters will need cleaning too. Then see if it returns. What UV cylinder?

Flexis on both? Same age. Has to be localised. Remove any aerators and see what's behind them.

Beat me to it mate (y)

What bit is actually leaking? Photo?

Clean it up. Drain it down. Remake the joint with whatever and try it... Nothing to lose really.

I've just rebuilt one from 2017 so that's a good innings (y)

I'd still isolate the blender... If it has valves it's a simple test.