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It's all rotten, and I suspect the ends of the slate battens might be similar. Not only that, but the "blockiness" of the rot suggest dry rot rather than wet rot. Either way, it's all got to come off and something new put in place. It really needs scaffolding, stripping and sorting with new...

Go to your local kitchen supplier and get a length, or even B&Q https://www.diy.com/departments/tydeman-matt-pebble-straight-cornice-l-2400mm-h-74mm/5063022533357_BQ.prd

I've never been a fan of any "plug" type fitting for plasterboard. When I've had to fix to PB as there's a void I can't avoid, then I tend to use toggle fixings https://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-spring-toggles-5mm-x-50mm-20-pack/4257x Floating shelves however are a very tricky proposition...

No, it'll just be a 20cm bigger void behind the backpanel of the unit, or you could get some non-standard carcasses made up with extra depth

No that won't happen, but you'll struggle to get any EPC with a single skin wall, and any changes then invoke BC if you want to try and get a better EPC.

It's becoming a renter so not so easy to avoid doing it by the book.....

You really, really don't need a nail gun for the jobs you are planning. Use screws and an impact driver and/or nails and a hammer.

looks like a money pit and world of pain to me.

£1K cheaper - ouch.

pic #3 - what a mess. As you have found the rebates are just not big enough for DGU and they have chewed them with the router trying to make them fit. Trying to machine that in-situ is ridiculous. Dare we ask what they are charging you per window to convert?

It's a bodge. You cant just replace single glazing with double in a sash window because the weights needs changing significantly. DGU are more than twice the weight - and often the single glazing was only 3mm in old windows. You could easily need 4kg extra each side - quite a big chunk of lead...

Micro digger will most likely go through there. Dig it, shutter the side with timber and road pins, get barrowmix to fill and finish. The pad wants to be sized so water running down the walls goes outwards and not on to the pad and runs in. Don't underestimate how secure the shuttering needs to...

IMHO it's only a problem if it presents as a problem. I'm sure many chimneys, including mine, have a degree of soot and salt contamination - some will show, some won't. I have one particular chimney that is now lined for a gas stove that is very contaminated, and I still have problems with...

:ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: With regard to the building regs, no they haven't cocked it up, and ventilation if it is actually serving a purpose, is appropriate. What the building regs don't detail is that ventilation is only any good when the ventilating air is evaporating moisture. If the...

The point is air does contain moisture and the amount depends on temperature and relative humidity. Saturated, air at 20 degrees contains about 17g per m3 - about a tablespoon. So if you were able to fully condense all the water vapour to liquid, that's what you would get - a tablespoon per m3...

OK. The sole purpose of ventilation is to evaporate any moisture that may be in the chimney - no moisture = no point in ventilating. Where could moisture come from? 1) down the chimney, 2) penetration through the wall, 3) attracted by hygroscopic salts and the chimney has enough air inlets in to...

you heathen :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: .... but you're right! If you don't want to "do it properly", some fairly significant bracketing, bracing and reinforcing will surely work - especially as it will all be covered up!

I can't be bothered to answer this question yet again....the search function is quite useful

Y I used a bit of MC on this house - was going to use it inside as well, but after using it outside decided not to - it's evil. TBH all the other strippers work, but only up to a point. I used a load of peelaway stripping some decorated cast iron fire places with multi layers of paint, then ran...

Personally, if the treads and risers are split, they are shot. You could try gluing, but they take a lot of stress. Now you are where you are, you could cut out the wedges with a multitool, take out the damaged treads and risers, and cut some new ones. Clean out the wedge slots, and cut new...