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How will they know it was over 50 cu.m once it isn't there?

The house will still sell with or without a certificate. It's what indemnity policies are for. In any case, if all the rest of the windows are replaced later and have a fensa certificate, no-one will bother about this one that was done at a different time.

Filler, filler, filler!!! If it was mine, I'd be thinking about running up a new base rail on the router table and piecing in some new wood. How long does that take? Could certainly make that window last a good few years more. Ask a few local joiners. Having said that though, uPVC windows are so...

When I need to round off a window board or similar I usually grab my "hollow" wooden hand plane.....made in 1796 !!! ( before the battle of Trafalgar!!) A few passes and a bit of sandpaper and a perfect bullnose is the result!

Absolutely agree with @23vc - build your timber frame away from the wall with a maintenance gap. You'll avoid a world of pain should that retaining wall leak water through as it well might, and the timber frame will have all the nice insulation in. The gap gives you space for any overhang/gutter...

@chirpychippy you learn something every day. Thanks for the tip :)

@GusGF that sounds like a very good service to me. Give them a decent review! I was fearing the worst from your first post

That leadwork look pretty sound, but undoubtedly there is a leak. There should be a cavity tray above that window, but if that is potentially letting water through or it may not even be there, then the problem may not be that roof, but the window above. Quite possibly water is finding its way in...

Conservatories are often built on very shallow foundations, and it isn't unlikely there has been a small shift. Another problem with uPVC conservatories is that the thermal expansion of uPVC is huge and it will expand and contract significantly summer-winter. This thermal movement has a tendency...

colorfill is a filler not a glue. The clue is in the name....

I suspect the door /frame is leaking in the corner. Get the hosepipe out and test it.

I'll second (or third, or fourth) the opinion that it isn't worth worrying about. Houses always have a few little wrinkles.

@noseall I agree, but foam has it's place. It has one big advantage in my personal experience; salt contamination doesn't cross it unlike wet dabs...

Now you know that, you'll prob do what I do which is drill through and wack a screw and red plug in to keep in position...

@23vc yes in my experience foam is really only good for boards if the wall is flat

My house has a load of board - squirt and stick, no waiting! Hasn't fallen off yet... The 5 minute thing isn't mentioned in the instastik application instructions.... No breaks, no kit kats :D

Not sure I totally agree with that. I think it depends on the brand of foam. I've found with Instastik that it skins rapidly, and if you wait too long, it skins too much to get a good grip. Pinkgrip foam which I've also used, seems to take a bit longer to go off.

If you don't want to muck around with wiring, you could just use smart bulbs and stick-up switches. Leave the bulbs powered on and use the stick-ups to control. I use philips hue and it's a very solid system - the switch batteries last years. You'll also get benefits like timer control, voice...

Yes, you could, but foam when initially applied has no body, so when you push the panel in place the foam will compress to almost nothing. If you want it 10-20mm off the surface, as your builder says you either have to build up even layers of foam, or use some wood blocks to stand the panel off...

If you need 10-20mm use a dab adhesive and pop a few screws and plugs through once it's solid if you want. Unless you fit some sort of timber packer to get the levels, you'll never use foam at that thickness. It's best used pushed tight to the wall.