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I've been using this in honeytone for the last 4-5 years on teak furniture https://www.semco-online.com/index.asp. It doesn't peel and does give a nice colour. Easy to apply. I re-do it every year. Expensive but is very good. Buy a big tin, and it'll last ages.

Personally, I think you are going to have a problem, particularly with the gas. When I had a new outside box installed by my builder ready for a new connection, the gas provider made a huge song and dance about the builder even drilling the back box for some securing screws, in case they leaked...

go on amazon or anywhere else. Cross dowels for just the cross piece or bed bolts if you want flat head screws as well. Otherwise any metric bolt can be used with a cross dowel

@noseall I was responding to this. In the past surely BC would be the ones to sign-off conformity. If they are now asking the PD, it changes things dramatically. BC, particularly privatye BC, have to carry PI insurance against them being negligent - this was what the fuss was about after...

@tony1851 It's a mess. What happens with a DIY/self build small project where there is no architect and carried out using a notice? Are we saying BC will ask the client as PD to sign off? That's ridiculous - it suggests the client carries the liability and not BC. Or are we saying all projects...

Isn't that the truth! Hopefully as a someone who routinely works with many construction contracts that wouldn't be me!

@robinbanks, yes I know all that, but this looks like a simple 2-wall Permitted development extension that many would do on a notice. (except it's scotland....!) Interestingly, almost identical to one a builder mate was talking about recently. Council grant to build a downstairs bathroom of a...

@noseall maybe. But liability to whom? It is the clients ultimate responsibility to ensure compliance, and if the client and PD are the same person? Or are you thinking that BC are picking up liability, in which case we have a completely different kettle of poisson! I think this is a developing...

@noseall - yes, but what happens on a simple DIY-led project where the DIY-er or self-builder employs the trades. That DIYer might be competent to project manage, the trades competent to construct, but what if the DIY-er has no official bits of paper to prove "competency" as PD even if for the...

From a couple of threads I've seen elsewhere I think this is already on us. There was a thread somewhere where BC were not accepting a DIY builder to be a competent designer to sign off, and he hadn't kept the architect on board as Principal Designer

Be aware that all plastics have a fairly huge thermal rate of expansion. If your floor is exposed to areas where the sun can beat down on it, be very careful. Also make sure whoever fits it adheres to the manufacturers guidelines for installation temperatures. Installing in winter is risky...

We inherited a conservatory at the last house. One solid wall and the rest glass and dwarf wall. However, whoever had built it had used 5 ply polycarb on the roof, and it was really not that bad - it was also connected to the heating (I know) and was a very usable space. Having said that, I...

Time to pull it all out and start again. In my experience, once water is behind the tiles, and if it's a 1980's house most likely tiled on to plasterboard, it'll be soggy and soft. My process, that I've used a few times, is to have some 18mm ply under the shower to help stop flex, cement board...

Small area like that you can probably end up with a decent job if you skim it yourself. I do my own, and I'm getting better. However, there is some investment in tools (whisk, trowel, hawk), so unless you can see a future use it's prob better to get someone in.

If it's internal more likely it just takes a very long time to heat up. Stonework will have a huge heat capacity and although the room air will warm quickly, the wall will stay cold until enough heat energy is available for it to warm, then it will stay warm long after the room has cooled down -...

no, it'll be fine. Still air isn't a problem.

reading the SWIP design and installation guide, it is obvious that the success of this relies totally on the air-tightness of the insulation layer and preventing room air getting to the wall fabric. But what about through the ceilings and joist ends? or through the floor and behind the...

The one on the back kitchen wall never freezes because the copper conducts enough heat. I have isolated when we have been away. The one on the outbuilding gets turned off and isolated in winter and the tap left open

Agree completely with @^woody^ Unless the room air is completely and absolutely sealed from the wall fabric (which it is very unlikely to be), there will be a temperature gradient between the inside and outside, and somewhere along that gradient is the dew point of the internal air, where room...

More likely it's getting past the ply. I would seal it up top and bottom. You certainly don't want warm humid room air continually going in to a cold loft space.