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"Solid core" doors won't have particularly nice internals, and trimming doors beyond the trim limit isn't a great idea for a neat finish. Personally, unless there were very good reasons not to, I'd take the archs off, remove the frame and re-make it to fit the doors - hopefully there is enough...

Y always drill a pilot for stainless, but I find for most ordinary hinges I ditch the supplied screws and just use Riessers of an appropriate size wound in with the knocky-knock (impact driver). If the hinges are stainless, I use the supplied screws with care. If they are decorative chrome or...

I think you need a second opinion. The lintel spanning both houses must be supported on the party wall. It is very difficult to envisage why this can't be cut and a new lintel engineered to sit on top of the cut end, or even a goal post structure. Just because SE #1 can't see the solution...

In the days before RAMS no doubt :ROFLMAO:

7 of the windows in my house are sashes I made from scratch, so a few lessons learned along the way - start a new thread on anything you need to know...There are also some real experts over at UKWorkshop woodworking forum who make and repair sash windows

Get new beads - you can get both Accoya and synthetic wood beads e.g. https://www.reddiseals.com/product-category/sash-window/beading/reddibead-wood-plastic-composite/ and https://quantumprofilesystems.com/qwood/qwood-window-profiles/ Buy a roll of this and when you pin the beads on to a bed of...

If you are tempted to get some Dichloromethane stripper, do be extremely careful - use it outside if you can - it is dangerous to use without ventilation/appropriate PPE. Do sometimes think some of the regs are a bit unnecessary, but control of DCM stripper maybe not! If using inside I've found...

Rent a scaff tower and drop it. There is no other sensible/safe option. No way would I be cutting out a section of cast iron soil - you're gambling that the fixings above are good enough to support the now unsupported stack, when in reality they are quite possibly corroded.... Cast iron soil is...

What do I tend to use when hanging a single door? Not a palm router, or an electric planer. My go-to tool for fitting doors is now a track saw. Place the door over the opening, shim under it whatever you want the clearance to be and mark the head height for cutting. Whip a track saw across...

Local handyman - 1/2 to 1 hour tops. How much can it be!

Nicely done!

...except the one where you are picking up an existing waste above the floor, and there is no simple route to create a new waste outlet below. Yes, if I was designing new, I'd go for a flush tray too, but practicality on the ones I have done has meant a riser has been the best option. Thinks:-...

Each to their own. I prefer the tray on a riser with accessible plumbing, ever since I had a tray (not one I'd put in, but one in a new house) split around the waste area. What a PITA that was to put right because the plumbing was buried...

I'm not. All I can offer is the science behind condensation and humidity that was part of my Merchant Navy training back in the day, and my own personal experience working and renovating a couple of 100+ year old houses and noting what has been successful and what not, and trying to work out the...

I would not pay the other builder particularly quickly. Get photographic evidence, and for now just play hard to get, or if you want to, withhold a sum suitable to pay the other team for the remedial work. Problem is without formally giving builder #1 a chance to rectify, you're on slightly...

It will, and is why fires draw better when it's windy. The same force draws warm room air up a chimney if it's not in use........

have to say with showers there's a lot of form over function. IMHO it's hard to beat a quality tray like "just trays" mounted on a riser so plumbing under is accessible with a decent trap with an easily removable core so you can clean the hair out when you are in the shower and realise it isn't...

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My 2p on this is in order from best to worst 1)Vented at the top, externally vented at the bottom - air flow with virtually zero condensation risk in all conditions 2)Vented at the top, not vented at the bottom. The open top will still allow evaporation of any dampness in the chimney caused by...

@chirpychippy well spotted!