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I replaced a zone valve today that I fitted only 2yrs ago. Appalling, motor had seized.

This surely suggests blocked trap or condi pipe?

We are not allowed to use brass olives on LPG (gas) pipework, that about sums them up.

I always use copper olives, brass go in the scrap bin, as said above, if you get a weep, undo nut and wrap a couple of turns of PTFE around olive, never fails.

This suggests your expansion vessel needs recharging, I believe you will find how to on the FAQs on this site.

That is repairable, very cheaply.

Trusty and Ferroli in the same sentence?

Is it possible that the condensate pipe (which may be teed into a drain) is allowing odours into the room, which may smell like gas? Eg, there may be an air gap installed on the condi pipework.

I just had a quick look thrtough the book online and couldn't see a pressure sensor. I would have thought there is one, something is telling the PCB there's not enough pressure? They are usually easy to spot, and easy to bridge out just for test purposes.

I rareley come across these boilers, but logic would dictate that the boiler thinks it has no pressure, so I would be looking at the pressure sensor.

As I suggested some time ago;)

Knackered tap, crappy modern ceramic valve, see loads of them. If you can accurately ID the tap, just get a repalcement cartridge, if not, you'll have to change the tap.

If you've drained the system, you'll need the air from the heat exchanger.

Are you sure the immersion hasn't been left on? Does the boiler and pump switch off if you turn the cyl stat down with the boiler running?

Looks ok to me, but choose one rad to act as a bypass by fitting lockshield valves to both ends, and leave them open, this is usually the rasd nearest room stat.

The blue light tells you that you have power to the boiler, unless it is flashing, which indicates a fault. My first port of call would be to see if the boiler actally has a demand for heat from the stat. If HW is working, then that's quite likely the problem

It would be far easier just to change the pan.

Could be a number of things, but I would need to be in front of the boiler to see what is happening. My bet is flame sensor, but you'll need a GS bod to install it.

I close the flow/return valves on the boiler which preserves the pressurised water in the exp vessel, and prevents air being drawn into the auto air vent. You just need to depressurise the system via a drain and crack on. If you have a enough play in the pipes, it's easiest to undo one side and...

Hideous boiler, skip it.