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Bin it, the software in those things is hideous when it hits self destruct mode.

Black valves should be in the vertical position

Try opening the non TRV valve fully open and see what happens

Yes

We use brick acid, easilly available & does the job. It's normally the primary side of the plate that blocks from the muck in the system.

Easiest way would be to buy a flexi tap connector hose with integral iso valve and attach it onto the copper below the speedfit connector, discard everything else there.

Your boiler doesnt have a pilot light. I suspect you don't have a combi boiler boiler either. We need more info. Do you have a hot water cylinder?

I define a power shower as one fed from separate, gravity fed H&C supplies, the unit contains its own pump which provides the desired flow.

That looks like it has a internal screw for which you will need an Allen key to adjust. You will need to unscrew the whole thing to repair it, using a new O ring, or maybe PTFE tape,

I changed a a rad for a heated towel rail for someone today, had to alter pipework slightly to make it neat. Used the bungs as shown above, lost about a litre of water before it sealed, job done.

OP said earlier he was getting 28mb at boiler

Ask yourself if it ever worked properly? If it did, what has changed?

Seemes bizarre that gas supplier can't adjust meter governor to the standard 21mb (+or-2mb), I'd be complaining to them again if it were me.

As Terry says, shower valve fault

Why on earth would she suddenly get a gas leak?

As Madrab says, blocked plate hex.

Your pump may be wired directly to the boiler, in which case, the fault may lie there.

If you've turned the valve clockwise, you will have turned it off. Some of those valves can be repaired when they leak, if not, you'll have to replace it/them. Have you tried opening it fully? Sometimes they stop leaking when fully open.

It won't blow up, it'll just switch itself off.

Condi trap is full/blocked