Search results

pretty unlikely, better doing it properly and re-piping it. And surely you want to be moving it out more than 2cm based on the above?

Foam gaps - yes Shave PIR - I wouldn’t, as I said above, just do it in such a way as that’s not needed

Assume that’s a timber frame with block infill? There’s loads of ways you could do it, could start again with a 2x2 frame with say 50mm PIR behind it and screwed through into the existing studs. Then another 50mm layer between the new battens. That’d be pretty easy but lose you at least 100mm...

If space, to make a noticeable gain I’d deffo go with more like 50-100mm PiR, framed/trapped to existing battens/masonry with battens then normal plasterboard rather than bothering with insulated board. Edit: just zoomed in on the photos, what the hells going on with that blockwork !

Pink fireline plasterboard? If so, use bugle headed drywall screws. Rather worrying that any screws have “fallen out” which shouldn’t happen in a million years. Maybe post a pic to confirm

Either stick/dab 9.5mm/12.5mm boards on nice and tight, or glue and bonding coat then skim, or a bonding/skim mix. How deep the artex pattern is will dictate whether you need to put bonding on it. If it’s not deep, pva and skim. If deep, bonding first. Always a slight risk of whole lot falling...

Are you talking about an opening in an existing house wall which is going to be too big for a conservatory which is going to replace an existing wooden structure? Sketch may help.

One of the key characteristics of cavity bats is they supposedly don’t wick moisture. But they don’t tend to get used below dpc much, tend to just start them sat on the cavity ties at dpc level. Then perimeter PIR to reduce thermal bridging.

I’ve got that too and it’s great. But it isn’t going to do this one easily.

I’m imagining trying to do this even with the heaviest (back breaking) kango I’ve used, and I think I’d be a complete nightmare/impossible. And back breaking due to the fact it’s underground and surrounded presumably by earth. Does it have to go, given it’s buried underground? Are you wanting...

The hire place will recommend one if you tell them what it’s for. But that sounds a big job for any hand held one. Mine have what they call a “road drill”, proper low frequency percussion heavy upright thing. Your job is deffo beyond the scope of any of the smaller SDS max type kangos I’d say

that looks like cement/backer boards, which would normally be tile adhesive’d and screwed down onto ply/timber/chipboard. If so, the screws don’t indicate joist positions as they only go into the subfloor not the joists.

Sounds fine

I reckon deep window reveals look good! Like an old stone walled cottage. But yeah as above, sounds potentially not necessary in the first place

Yeah, plug a load of mortar in. Those first courses are often a lot of adjustment from a concrete foundation that’s not bang on level, to get it spot on where it’s seen above ground. But should still have full perps and no gaps.

I’m not an SE but very sure it’s doable with the right bearing detail. The fact that the wall is single skin doesn’t mean it can’t take the chimney load.

You don’t need a dpc above the house wall dpc height, no. But make sure you deal with it below dpc height. It’d never be a breathable membrane here. No airflow involved.

What’s the outside wall(s) like in terms of how well protected/pointed, any leaking gutters/downpipes etc. Photos will help

I deffo wouldn’t do that, I know it’s a faff but re-routing the aco and rainwater pipe into that IC, is gonna be a better solution and worry free then

Drilling a few holes in it may help if you go all the way through with a long bit Or bed a paving slab or two down so you’ve got a dry bit to step out onto