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I have bought the correct greases for each specific purpose. I actually bought the proslip grease pack, which makes it easy. I know it's cheaper per kg buying larger tubs but I'd never get through it. There is enough in these tubes to probably do half a dozen pad changes. It has one for pad...

Thanks for that. As it's my first attempt doing this, I'm obviously making sure I'm doing it correctly, but then it becomes easy to over complicate something. For example, if I am doing the pads only, is it worth my time removing the caliper bracket as well as the caliper and thoroughly clean...

Going to do my first front pad change. The disks are fine, so just going with pads. I have all the equipment I need and have carefully watched a few guides on my car/model. There is one area there there seems to be a bit of opinion on. When I push the piston back should I..... A) open the...

Rang another local garage (well regarded locally) and they will do an oil and filter only for around £120ish. Happy to stamp the book to that effect too. So, considering my options. The car is in very good condition, it's only done 4000 gentle miles since it's last service. But I have always...

I rang a local indy garage, one with a good reputation, as I am fed up with the experience of the main dealer I have been going to. Not so much the actual service, but the condescending attitude from the office staff. I was surprised to hear that the price would be similar to the main dealer...

Cut the filter open, and was pleasantly surprised. Filter seemed to be in pretty good shape for (potentially) 17 years and 50k miles. It looked dark/black initially, but has lightened somewhat now it had dried out a bit. I have also increased the exposure somewhat to see more detail, so it...

Changed the fuel filter next. Pretty easy plug and play on this car. From my guess, this is the original filter (although I can't see a date code), so it is about 17 years old and 50k miles. Once I have flushed it a tiny bit I am going to crack it open and see what it looks like.

Yeh, the colour was bad. It was a bit more of faff (as it always ends up being), as I was basing the procedure on similar era fords (mk5 fiesta etc). They all seemed to have a point on the return feed that could be easily split with a lot of flex and play. This was not the case on this KA. It...

Just an update to my slow ford ka servicing. Finally got round to doing the power steering fluid.....and it looked very old. Jet black, smelled bad. I used the manual method and disconnected the return pipe to the hopper and manually turned the wheels on jacks while adding fresh. It took...

Problem solved....i think! I was about to order a used replacement head. When i decided to do one last double check of everything. With the motor spinning so smooth and free something didn't feel right. I checked voltage again and then decided to have one more go at manually cranking...

Tyres have been corrected. Apparently the fitter was dismissive that it would make any discernable difference. But, at least they corrected it without argument.

I may have sourced a good value pump head in working condition near me. It's a Grundfos UPS2 15-50/60 130. From everything I can see, it should be compatible. Just wanted to check I was not making a mistake. Only difference I can see are that is has the more efficient modern motor. The only...

I'm certain the pump is being supplied with 240v. As per the picture above, it has those gate valves......I guess the question is whether they will work after not being used for about 30 years :LOL:. But I'm hoping a drain down will not be required.

I assume just replacing the pump head is an option? Rather than the whole pump. Something like https://spares-direct.com/products/boiler-m8-rs25-6j-universal-replacement-pump-head?variant=31718425460798&currency=GBP&utm_source=copilot.com&cor_id=8f3ea733-c3f2-4f69-a5d3-de3658c0db3f or...

The plot thickens......I I will need help clarifying the wiring set-up. But, put simply, the pump does not seem to be getting 240V supplied to it when the timer is energised and calling for heat, which is...obviously confusing. So accessing the pump area, I also discovered this fuse spur...

Ok, I tested line and neutral with a known good earth (extension cable) and still 0v. But.....and this is where I am intrigued....and potentially back to suspecting the pump. I realised I was testing the thermostat without the timer/programmer energised. So i set CH/HW to on, and then tested...

Ok, the initial results are not what I expected. It looks like there is no power coming into the thermostat! It seemed to be fluctuating quite a lot, and I did get a few readings at 240V but it mostly seems to be supplying less than one volt. It then settled after a bit but still seems...

Yeh, I have have a multimeter. I was just being lazy as everything seems to be getting power. But you are correct, I have not confirmed it. So, just so I am clear as to what is going on here, is what I have marked up correct? The "earth" is being used as a switched live. So first check I...

Hmm, I bridged Live and the CH 4 terminal and nothing...... This set-up is as simple as it gets, i have no wiring centre for the central heating. I am back to thinking the thermostat is the failure point. Even if it did not seem to fire in either position, something else must have failed on it.

The system has no cylinder valve, so the hot water is always on if the central heating is on. So the stat pretty much goes to the pump via the timer/programmer, I think. So based on the diagram on the back of the timer, I should just bridge L and number 4? Could I also do some kind a...