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I don't speak from professional expertise but you're definitely not wrong. Get a U-guage and see how hard it is to blow 20Mb. Then rig up some water pipe with 3 bar pressure and try and blow against that ! If you want some real pressure fun, install an air sourced heat pump (aka aircon) and...

Clean (wirewool/whatever) and then flux just around the hole then apply the patch? Not sure - normally soldered joints in fittings are mechanically fixed inside the barrel of the fitting (the solder floods the gap inbetween). Does layering a bit of solder hold water (or gas) so to speak ? If...

Thanks - a good mini-guide right there. Would you make the hole in the wall large enough for both 32mm pipe _and_ 13mm or 19mm insulation? That'd be quite a big hole just to accomodate a few drips ?

Interesting thanks. Presumably your boiler doesn't have a built in trap with at least 75mm depth then because according to the Water Regs doc I posted, it says you don't need a trap in that case. Then again if there is no trap external to the boiler, wouldn't you get smells or at least drafts...

Well, I think I can answer my own question in case anyone else would find this useful. Pretty detailed steps there although must admit I don't really know how important these guidelines are but assume if you comply with them you comply with the relevant building regs. I will obviously check the...

Having read a dozen threads here an elsewhere I'm still none the wiser as to what the preferred method of routing condensate from a boiler is. Apart from calling a pro that is. The current arrangement is not satisfactory. Boiler is in an integral garage. Other side of the wall 2 metres along...

Thanks a lot mrrusty. I had thought of doing away with that end joist and cladding the ends of the main joists directly as I was wary about the main joists being left with only 50mm or so on the wall. But I'm now passed the point of no return cutting the joists down and I'm doing it your way...

Par for the course for me unfortunately. So I posted up a few weeks ago a problem I knew I would run into but because I didn't have any photos because it wasn't build then, it was difficult to explain so asking again with the photos. By all means have a pop at it. I'm sure the clips are wrong...

I don't need the extension on mine but I've looked at it and it definitely maintains the fall internally. That said it is an oddball boiler (Intergas) so that might be why !

The MIs for my boiler flue say it must be fitted level as the fall takes place on the inner pipe internally. IMO notching the beam like that is the worst thing there by far. Not supposed to notch anything at all from the bottom.

Yep - that's where I bought it! Thanks again.

Prefect thanks !

No just regular plastic hose pipes with cut ends - no fittings.

one is 1/2" and the other is 3/4". What wold be the best method to join them I wonder? All the adapters I've seen seem to be for one size or the other but not both. Any ideas on this seemingly easy question gratefully received . Thanks !

No you're right - a lot depends on what you are doing. If you can do the letby on the meter and tighntess test you know how to use your manometer so can measure pressure. MIs on a boiler for example, will spell out what the different pressures should be. But in any case, none of this is a...

Well how long is the full monty? The ACS courses I've seen are thousands pounds but only 5 days. And you come out a course cowboy and a shiny card to work on someone elses supply for money. Also how long does it take to learn how to check a system for tightness and how to use an FGA? Not long.

Its a good topic surely not only confined to 2004, 2006, 2014 and 2021. My own thoughts are Gas DIYers should be made to go through a simple 1 day course. Morning learn some basic theory of gas, what a letby and tightness test are for and also about the dangers of CO etc including how to use...

You can get an FGA still with months of calibration left on it for about £150. Re-calibration at around £120 if you wanted. Without it, I don't know how you would know there are no products of combustion going out the flue and then coming back in? I guess a CO alarm might help but it won't be...

It probably was a gravity 30-50 years ago but about 25 years ago someone added a pump and moved the boiler into the garage and ran a pair of 28mm back to the house where the pump is. Possibly 20M long so presumably they thought it would maintain flow/pressure that way. Not sure.

I want to fit a crossover to the return next to the boiler. 28mm copper crossovers are seemingly very difficult/expensive to obtain as is a 28mm pipe bender. Currently flow and return are both 28mm and have a long run (15M ?) before they get to the airing cupboard where the cylinder and MVs...