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That's a bit of a nerve suggesting someone is using "too much" toilet paper. People use as much toilet paper as they need to get themselves clean. It's not up to anyone else to tell them how much to use. Modern toilet cisterns are so small they cannot use siphon flushing and instead have a valve...

If the radiator is not actually obstructing where the stove is going, I would leave it in place. You can then see if you actually save any money by turning it off when the stove is burning. A better plan would be to fit the radiator with a thermostatic valve so it turns itself off when the stove...

Going back to the original question about how you could move the wall thermostat from the Hall. If your existing themostat has a neutral supply (which nearly all older wall mounted thermostats have) then you can do this by getting a 2-unit thermostat which has a receiver unit replacing the...

Calling this a "rat flap" implies that it can open to allow a rat to pass through it (like a cat flap). Correct me if I'm wrong, but I suspect you don't want that? In which case, you'll need a permanently attached cover for the elongated hole as Nife F and Mottie suggest.

A cost of nearly £500 just to obtain a pump, massflow sensor and cable, and not include the labour to fit these items, seems very high to me. Are you sure your Home Emergency Cover insurance company didn't encourage the "engineer" they sent out to exaggerate the cost so they could reject the claim?

Not only are modern 6L toilets often unable to flush properly, but these small cisterns are too small for the reliable and leak free siphon flush system to work. So instead they are fitted with a bottom outlet valve which often leaks - and since this is into the toilet bowl this leak goes...

It's not "sweating" - unless there's a leak somewhere. Normally it's just water vapour in the air condensing out on the cold walls of the copper pipe - kept cold by the fresh water feed coming in as you draw off cold water for household needs. Always worse in the winter when the mains cold...

WD40 is not actually very good at freeing off rusted items as all it is a water displacement material. You want to use something actually labelled as a penetrating oil.

Siphons don't usually "bust". The flexible diaphragm inside them just starts to disintegrate and won't move enough water up into the siphon to start it flowing. They can normally be fixed just by replacing the diaphragm, which is often just a sheet of polythene.

It's amazing (and shameful) how so-called "experts" can miss such a simple issue

And still people are installing these boiling water taps! If the Quooker really does keep its water reserve near boiling continuously, then apart from the waste of energy doing so, it won't be much good for making tea - which requires freshly boiled water without all the dissolved oxygen...

The only issue I can foresee with solvent welding the gutter sections is how the long gutter will deal with the considerable expansion that uPVC experiences when subject to heat from sunlight. The joint systems for uPVC gutters are sealed with rubber seals which allow for expansion and...

I think BG fitters are trained to say that ALL parts on ANY boiler they are called to repair are "obsolete" That way, their fix is always "a new boiler" - can't get the parts for these old'uns (even when only a few years old!)

Judging by what can be seen of the old radiator's condition, it would probably be better just to replace it, rather then spending time trying to get the stuck tail out.

Despite the (good) advice to avoid flexi pipes because of their tendency to accumulate muck and block, it does seem that in the case of a bath like this, which can only be stuck down, it's the way to go. Inevitably people will sit on the edge of the bath and it will move a bit, so any rigid...

When you do get the waste pipe repaired, you'll also need to find a way of supporting the bath more effectively. It should not have moved sufficiently to break the waste pipe when somebody just sat on it!

Yes, indeed you can, but you'll still need to connect the compression tee to the filling loop valve, which will require a short length of copper tube. The compression tee connection to the existing copper tube MAY be able to use the existing olive and nut, but it would probably be wise to remove...

But the OP said in an earlier post that he was able to turn the pump rotor freely in both directions.

Before you try just tightening the end cap you need to see where the leak is coming from. If it's from the end cap then tightening might work. If it's from the holes, tightening the end cap won't make any difference and indicates, as you suggest, that the safety valve is leaking slightly due to...

Well of course it will if the loft is well ventilated - since it is continually exchanging loft air with outside air. That just shows your loft is properly ventilated - nothing to worry about, and it's very unlikely that they'll be any condensation forming because the air and the roof components...