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https://www.google.com/search?q=manual+syphon+pump&sca_esv=96d5796968b1433c&sxsrf=APpeQnuE_Y95zmUYaZNqwGQR7LiFqgJHCg%3A1782894830206&source=hp&ei=7tBEapzNCcyKhbIP2Mun2Q8&iflsig=ABILxe8AAAAAakTe_gVp-xovvK2idnJJfDImluP9HBPi&oq=manual+spyphon+&gs_lp=Egdnd3Mtd2l6Ig9tYW51YWwgc3B5cGhvbiAqAggAMgcQABiABB...

Yes that would probably be ok and this is not a criticism but it puzzles me why people of late don't want to have a step down onto a patio when you are going to have to step over the door threshold anyway.

Would it be easier to build a false floor/plinth over the pipe and raise the washer over the pipe and back to the wall.

Yes but long dead woodworm, probably treated years ago. Looks like someone has been up there with a can of foam to me too. Love the old door handle, I guess to aid access to the loft :giggle:

Yes I would think so. Or someone who instals flue liners for wood burners

My thoughts, although like you not an expert, are that you want the insulation held against the inner skin so that it retains heat in that skin and it does not escape into the cavity. Reading about the properties of vermiculite suggested that it will meet the ops requirement and improve...

Can you get an adhesive to the bottom of the cavity? Gravity and tamping it down as you fill will make vermiculite firmer, but not sure it would need it.

Sould be able to drill a slopping hole up into the loft space but difficult to tell from your pic..I'm sure he will find a suitable way for you.

If the motor is turning freely with the belt off but the drum is still stiff then it would suggest the bearings have failed. But the other possibilty is that something has got between the inner and outer drum but you would probably hear a noise when you turn it by hand if that is the case...

Is it possible you could fill the cavity between the insulation and outer skin with loose fill vemiculite or some other product, to hold the insulation firmly against the inner skin...

Do you mean the floor of the link is sloping away from the house and you are worried about water getting in under the new door frame. If so just order a frame with an inbuilt step and set it onto a fillet of cement to make it level and square. Or am I misunderstanding?

When I did ours I just used garage floor paimt, no primer. But follow the instructions on the tin. Not sure about epoxy if it would let the floor breathe or not. Do a google search for both methods and get some technical info.

He might as well do it properly now because he will have to declare it as a known problem when he comes to sell and that may well put off buyers.

Bra wires used to often get between inner and outer drum, take the drain sump off the bottom and see if you can see it as you turn the drum. Paddle fixings snapping and doing the same thing seems to also be a possibility.

You call that asking nicely :rolleyes:

Something like this help? https://www.screwfix.com/p/triton-envi-retro-fit-shower-plate/397KC?gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=19822795373&gclid=Cj0KCQjwr4jSBhCSARIsAOX1E-JA-H5niq71YgRPRkyVKMGP2I2WSQB3Lu8JfWC5UPuYQYJhviIVl6waArXMEALw_wcB#product_additional_details_container

More pictures from further away might help, but I would think you need to sort one row at a time after removing the top few rows

Don't they normally have a pull switch or remote control for the fan

Completely agree with endecopt. Just paint it with floor paint and let it breathe

"The leak is below the main cavity, not below the compressor. Would it be worth having repaired" There is often a tray on top of the compressor where melted ice water collects and evaporates during normal operation. If you have one and it is dry then check for the means of water running in to...