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I use a small AC, with the exhaust connected to the open hearth flue, this cools my living room, near enough. I looked at the idea of fans. 1) Need to ensure outside cooler than inside. 2) Need to only run when inside is too hot. A) bedroom (mine) only used at night so 1) does not apply. Have...

OK, I only worked with the Dutch. In Algeria of all places.

The original used a quartz halogen lamp around 300 watt to light the way. Moving to LED also resulted in one lamp being fitted to the shed. This would light my way new shed to old shed, the latter now gone, but then corner lights on the house sorry second daylight shot, would light my way...

For me, the main house and flat are both mine. And I have repeatedly told the council that there is no way I can rent the flat, as they share water, electric and the heating system. Every so often they try to claim double council tax if I don't rent it out, as which I say OK I will live in...

Fibre optic cable needs some device somewhere to turn it into electrical signals, this needs power, so will be plugged in, and we would hope you can still use the phone when there is a power cut so also some battery to back it up. I know my friend had it installed, and used the inverter supply...

Before harmonisation, EU was brown, black, black, and we were red, yellow, blue, after both went to brown black grey. But on low voltage side never seen red and blue together. On the extra low voltage side maybe, but not low voltage side.

I change some, use UTC on the radio, so summer I have some at BST and some at the real time.

I found a PIR turning off outside lights when halfway up the steps, terrible, on steps no idea if I can put stuff down to get phone out, which I need now to do to see my way to the front door. Only have to turn on with phone, turning off done with voice commands.

I was looking at electric tariffs, most seem to move to BST in the summer, the Economy 7 and 10 seemed to be the odd ones out. I set the time on Tapo smart sockets, for the tariff, and separate summer and winter, but only in 1 hour increments, on the zigbee no summer and winter but ½ hour...

Oh, please tell me more, getting a wireless temperature sensor to turn a zigbee switch on and off seems good, but 13 amp is around 3000 watts so it could control a 100 fans. Looking at my own loft, not sure if too hot for a smart switch, but it should be OK. Zigbee uses a hub, and I am unsure...

Have it your own way, but it will not work.

The colours make no never mind, just wire as shown.

This is how two-way works. you're red shown grey here from com to com must be correct, you have red and black which must go to S1 and S2 and blue and yellow also must go to S1 and S2 swapping red and black does not matter, or blue and yellow does not matter.

Not possible, they likely pulled out when you removed switch there must be three connections for two way switching to work. Sorry the picture not as intended, the at moment empty terminal will have the unused wire either red or black from two core, and the blue from three core.

Wired as two-way, note the red wire is in com. With this one the black and blue have come out to the terminal.

I see no numbers, and I thought it was about lighting? Ring finals are only used to supply sockets. So it needs a neutral to N, I would think the two N connect together internally. Line in to L in and Line out to L out. The red became brown years ago, but they are basic the same, and black...

I had a problem years ago with Sky, they fitted a dish, then when it had problems, said they could not work on it due to health and safety even when they put it there to start with.

I had zigbee well before Drayton Wiser, I did not realise Wiser used zigbee when I installed it, every so often the Wiser TRV reports no connection, we bought a socket adaptor to act as a range extender, but can the two zigbee systems be combined, so other items can also act as a range extender?

They look the same, 4 wires need connecting, well neutral is common so really three. The extra is to allow you to have a switch which will work with the wifi so that either can turn lamp on/off, but it does not need connecting.

I had to get a wet room built for my mother, around 2006, and we needed a completion certificate, part P came out according to google January 1, 2005 and one needed a completion certificate or a compliance certificate since that point for electrical work, don't know about other work. I had all...