Search results

While I was drilling a hole in the adjacent wall, the chuck must have rubbed against the line tail I cannot see the copper conductor, but I guess it needs changing anyway; if so, who does that? My supplier?

After almost 2 years I finally have my water softener, I just need to install it. Can I connect the waste to the existing basin waste using one of these...

I am looking at efficiency calculated using the manufacturers figures It looks like the kinetico regenerate every 400-500 L (with my current water usage, that’s 10 regenerations per month) The BWT one (electric) regenerates every 2500L (so about 2 regenerations per month); this means a...

Let me see if I understand metered softeners: with a single tank metered softener, if it needs regenerating every 500L and it's set to regenerate at 4AM, every day at 4AM it checks the water used since the last regeneration, if it's likely to go over the 500L in the next 24hrs, it starts...

I’d like to buy a water softener; I’ve been looking at the BWT that ScrewFix sells and they are about 500-600£ (they’ve probably gone uo in price in the last year) Other brands like Harvey must be over 1000£, even though they don’t seem to want to advertise their prices and I can’t really be...

Walls now plastered and doors ready to go in Do I need any special hinges or can I match what I have on other (much lighter) doors that are 76 x 51; I am going to fit 3 (rather than 2) as per manufacturer instructions, but they don’t specify what kind of hinges I guess any hinge will be fine but...

I’ll try to have fixings into the wall, but will probably have to fit the screws after the extractor

I made a bit of progress on the installation and I’ve come to realise the two wall screws at the back of the unit might be some kind of safety measure or just to make the installation easier (?) as they tell you to fit them at a certain height, which would result in the extractor not being flat...

What do you mean? If I raised the shelf I would have had a gap below

One is the panel above the microwave, that had to be cut to size (not all ovens are equal I guess) The other one is a 100mm filler panel that needs cutting down to 50mm; I don’t think they (DIY Kitchens) do them in 50mm, otherwise they would have sent them

The cut was ok with the new blade, but after fitting the panel I touched it and chipped it in two places I have to do the same for a panel between two units (oven tower and a wall unit); I think I’ll have the cut against the carcass of the oven tower, what’s the best way to conceal the cut?

I bought a 255mm 80T saxton blade for my table saw (will cut it with good face up anyway so it won’t be damaged)

307mm is the depth of the section of the extractor that sits below the unit (where the filters are), the section that goes inside is only 273mm The bottom is not meant to be flush with the unit

I would cut a slot for them If I fit the extractor too close to the wall, then the splashback (20mm quarts) will partially cover the lights Also, it seems to have been fitted to a certain distance from the wall in this picture (don't know what that vertical pipe is!)

The splashback is 2cm thick quartz cut to size+ the thickness of the adhesive I thought I could still cut a slot in the back panel to allow me to batten out the wall and attach the extractor to that

I think what JobAndKnock sketched has a problem: once the backsplash is fitted, the extractor will be partially blocked by it, I would only be able to move it towards me by 5mm or so I've thought of an alternative that would allow the splashback to be installed before the extractor is secured...

Yes, my table saw has a 254mm blade so 40T is a rough cut one I guess I was thinking of rebating the panel with the table saw to the right width Then turn it over (good face down) and use a flush router bit with top bearing to bring it level; this way I would not be dragging the router on the...

Why is a plunge saw better than buying a new blade for my table saw?

I need to cut kitchen end panels, they are painted MDF; at least two of them will need to be super accurate and without chipping because there will be no caulking: one of them is going between two wall units and the other one is a filler panel above the microwave door (the cut edge will be...

definitely a straight thread on both the tail and the radiator