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Those corrugated coils can trap air in the corrugations but I suppose shouldn't cause water hammer.

Hope your cylinder coil isn't like one of these .....

You said in your other thread that the mains pressure spikes from its normal 4.5bar to 8.0bar during the water hammer, you also say that the shock seems to be close to or at the UVC PRV, if so, I would install a 2L shock arrester close to the PRV end or maybe even better, T off from the balanced...

Zilmet make 2L ones but they are quite expensive, maybe because they are stainless and can withstand 15bar pressure?

Is that arrestor taken off the T before the ICG one of those tiny ones?, if so a 2/5L maybe set to 2bar might be better if you have the room to install it.

This is where the EV is normally taken off but the T take off should be fine IMO.

Once again, what make/model of UVC :unsure:

There's a lot of info on @Taconite5 s "Water Hammer" thread.

Push in the shaft with a screwdriver (pump stopped) this should give more than a trickle then. Obviously if pump shat not rotating with pump "on" then new pump required

Thats a pretty powerful pump and will circulate say 0.8m3/hr, 13.3LPM , at a head of 5.8M on speed3, which quite likely will cause pump over on even a clean OV system especially in a bungalow, suggest changing to speed1, this pump will still circulate 0.8m3/hr at a 3.0M head which should satisfy...

What make/model pump is installed?

Something else to try, run the CH at its present temperature, then turn the set point (target) temperature down rapidly by say 10C, this will trip the burner but the circ pump will continue to run and the zone(s) valves will remain open, see if the noise remains the same.

In both cases above, just check that its not something as daft as the flow and return pipes installed incorrectly. You can also note the set flow temperature and keep reducing it until (and if) the noise subsides.

Can you post a clearer view of the Pump details or if you can read them just post the details. The cold flowrate is 4.0LPM at a dP of 0.2bar, 2.0/1.8bar. You probably need at least 8LPM and preferably 10LPM when mixing with cold, if a shower then the mixing will take place at the lowest of the...

A £10 drill pump should do the job if you de pressurize the EV first.

Can you post a photo of this manifold with the pump running showing its LEDs, can then see what mode&setting its on, do they compare with the other correctly operating manifold's pump LEDs?, unfortunately, the UPS2 doesn't display the pump power which is quite useful as the flowrate can be...

Can you post a photo of the manifold with its TMV & pump showing its flow direction, also model/mode/setting, also TMV "make".

There are two types of membranes, one, which seems to be more used on larger capacity EVs as used say on UVCs is sandwitched in the "middle", the other is a like a baloon and just shoved in through a flange on the water end, often wondered why this type doesn't be noisy as when the EV is...

Replace with a OSO, no baffle, and the air bubble seems to last just as long as the baffled ones, you can also remove the dip tube and install a expansion vessel if a increase (~ 20%) in capacity is ever required.

Disconnecting at the EV confirms that there is no water in the EV but reasonably OK to assume if not disconnected.