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If you remove the pump you will find it is possible to remove the motor section from the housing either by taking out screws or by releasing a bayonet arrangement. The impeller is the bit that looks like a boat propeller and spins to pump the water. It can sometimes break free from the motor...

Before you order the pump you should try seeing if it will drain into a bucket as it could be a blockage in your house plumbing. When trying this you will need to loop the drain hose upwards then down into the bucket or it will drain by gravity. If the pump hums but does not turn it could be...

The connections are normally numbered so you just connect to the same numbers as before. It can sometimes be a bit tricky to work out which number relates to which connection but generally if you study it carefully you can get it right.

I would recommend you buy a new appliance. If you did repair the door it would need the machine testing for microwave leakage. The fine metal grill you mention is the screen to stop the escape of microwaves and it must be accurately located to work safely.

Taking voltage measurements can be misleading as burnt switch contacts (for example) may give a good reading with no load but that connection will break down as soon as you try to pass any current through it. Both the On / Off switch and the door switch can be checked by bypassing them. The On /...

The thing is, people qualified to answer your question probably don't frequent this site, which is a DIY advice forum.

Gas repairs are not an option for DIY so you should get a Gas Safe engineer to look at it.

It could be the On / Off switch. This is not the easiest part to get at so you might need to loosen the timer to get better access for inspection / replacement. Also look at the mains filter at the back near the cable entry point.

Sounds like it could be the water valves. Try to check if the humming noise is coming from one of the electric water valve solenoids at the back of the machine. I think that model was cold fill only if I recall correctly but if it has hot and cold fill, check that both water supplies are working.

Might be cheaper to find a shop that sells reconditioned machines and see if they will sell you a second-hand motor. You can buy an abrasive stick for polishing the commutator. Here in Hungary we can get such work done cheaply but that's because wages are much lower than in UK.

It could well be the pump but could just be a blockage in the outlet hose. Sometimes you don't even need a new pump, it could be something like a rubber band caught round the impeller. Using this video as a guide you can strip and inspect the pump and hose...

It could be worn drum bearings which are making the drum wobble which is then detected as an uneven load. Usually the machine goes back to agitate mode to try to redistribute the load then has another attempt at spinning. If you hold the outer tub steady and can wobble the inner drum it is...

I've never worked on a Gorenje. Probably there were no dealers selling them in my corner of Scotland. I have heard good things about them. They are based in Slovenia and own Asko, another quality brand. The Gorenje group includes Aga, Rayburn and Stanley cooking stoves, again quality products...

Don't know if yours has it but some of the Lavamats have a motorised device for moving the water jet to different compartments of the drawer. These do fail sometimes as there are tiny plastic gears that can strip their teeth.

Thanks for all the replies. I did find a slightly less arduous technique and got the last dozen or so boards off today. I knocked in the bolster chisel just to the side of the outer nail to lift the edge of the board slightly. I then knocked in a long cold chisel diagonally toward the inner...

One of what? :?

They are round head, only 3" but well rusted in. I've tried levering but obviously you can only lever from the side. The closest nail lifts but then the board splits rather than lifting the inner nail. Yes, if they were cut nails or lost head I would try punching them through but that might be...

I am renewing the wooden floor in a large bedroom (4.8m x 4.0m) The rot is mostly in the joists and I want to salvage as much of the old boards as possible for another job in my barn. The old boards are just planks, not T&G. I've been using a bolster chisel between board and joist with a lump...

Most likely they sold the machine to someone else who returned it. Difficult to prove though. If you can move the drum from side to side the bolts have been removed and it is safe to use.

I would not worry too much about the size of ducting but looking at the photo I wondered if rain could get into the ducting? Would it be better for it to initially slope upwards a bit before dropping down? Perhaps some string secured to a roof timber to hoist it up slightly. Duct tape comes in...