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Had it many times - Install this designer tubular rad please > it's the same output as the old Type 22 conventional convecting rad, so should be fine > I wouldn't recommend it, it won't heat the room the same but if that's what you want - 1 winter later - please take the tubular rad out and...

What you have linked to isn't a column radiator (rad) I'm afraid - it what is called a tubular designer rad. They look great but can struggle to heat any room of a reasonable size efficiently, it's all down to how they work. They are not convecting rads, more radiant. With radiators, experience...

Yep - To stop that then every stat would need changed. In the stats options menu, set the failsafe option (P3) to 0. How to set that will be in the manual. The client should be able to do that. Or give every stat their own batteries I guess.

I'd be tempted to suggest that they run them as normal and have them all with their own batteries, one set of batteries to power multiples of these stats would probably be used up in no time, That being said, that many stats is a heck of a lot of batteries which may one reason they did it. FYI...

Not sure why there would be any wires connected to a NEO Air as it should all be wireless, apart from the floor sensor. The NEO stats are hard wired as well as wireless but they look different to that and don't have the battery pack. Are the other stats NEO Air's too with the same cabling...

Not half :eek:

If you have done what you can and it's still nor working then whoever is in place to cover the guarantee/warranty on your new build will be the ones to call. They should be getting a qualified bod - G3 qualified for unvented as suggested - out to look at it for you.

@ johnw2 As suggested this all came out of whether it could be one reason why copper pipework was pinholing and whether plumbers should know about bonding or not. I am not sure then why so many bodies seem to specify about bonding and about how important it can be when it comes to domestic...

There are basic requirements and content, as part of the C&G tech training that cover electrical safety and bonding is part of that. Once completed that part of the course then there is no requirement to return to update, if and when any subsequent requirements may change. So no, we don't need...

I don't think I actually said everything has to be supplementary bonded, I just said bonded, though if I did then happy to correct that. Bonding could be either main protective, say in the case of gas or water entering the building or supplementary bonding, say in bathrooms This takes away from...

All - I know that this has probably been done to death but given there doesn't seem to be a real consensus on the subject, depending on who you talk to and given changes in the latest regs and nothing recent on the forum. As a plumber/gas engineer we are taught as part of the C&G tech certs...

Seems there is a significant difference of opinion when it comes to bonding, especially after the clarification in the 18th edition and the reference in Part P specifying that all electrical work be safe and Part P specifies that BS 7671 is used to define what safe means. That standard is very...

They were typically Myson round top rads, imperial sizes. A few others make them now but as suggested they aren't cheap. Given they are almost the same as Type 22 convecting rads then their efficiency isn't much less than more modern type 22 rads A traditional type column rad - depending on...

Certainly would agree that it won't be the plumber that would normally perform the electrical testing but bonding criteria? Not sure why a plumber wouldn't know about bonding criteria and if needed, when checking the pipework, should be able to identify it or note the lack of it. I'm a plumber...

Spot corrosion - may need to find out whether is a current leak or something else that is causing that as it could be effecting other copper in the property. Are the pipes electrically bonded? Hard to say re plastic - all comes down to how much is needed of what size really and then how many...

Lol - not just common sense but when actually knowing what they are and then actually thinking about it when typing would help!! I guess thinking along those line though, then the rad between K1 and K2 shouldn't really be a P+, even though it stand for panel plus, maybe should have been a K1.5...

Are you talking about a bottle trap below the basin? Why is there no room, is it a pedestal with a straight through trap?

Doh! - absolutely - really need to engage brain when writing sometimes

You can get cutting oil but a medium grade mineral oil will do, 3-in-1 is great for that. Another option is to cool it while cutting and that will save the cutting head too - water in a squirty bottle will do the job. If it's cutting well dry though then great, all the oil/water does is saves...

Maybe - but in my experience when it comes to a difference of ~ 30mm between them then there isn't that much difference in aesthetics - if client want a closer to the wall profile then I configure the brackets so the rad is on the short side rather than the long side. Being on the longer side...