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If it's a standard multikwick pan connector then typically the pipe it would fit would be 110mm. The Fernoc will not fit as the pipe that the pan connector is fitted into is level with the ground. Usually toilet spigots are around 105mm so refit a new multikwik and a normal 110mm socket plug...

Just run some white caulk around the outside of the case Some kits do come with pipe snap clips or good duct tape, a large jubilee clip could be used too.

If it's that tight in and some reasonable pushing and pulling isn't loosening then I'd be looking to cut it around the grout at the pan. Dremel with a diamond blade would probably do the job. Worst case would be to crack it off with a hammer to leave the foot then a chisel to break inwards...

You can use any of the polymer adhesives - CT1/OB1/SticksLikeShlt etc. You don't need a lot - this is just to anchor and hold the tray down, it's not so the tray sits up on it - So it's spots of adhesives equally over the area of the tray base or plywood, either or. Add the spots, lay the tray...

If it's a flat based stone resin tray and the plywood flooring is nice and solid/stable, flat and level then an adhesive will work - I use silicone adhesives in those cases without issue, not to be confused with silicone sealant. I then use silicone sealant on the tray edges at all the wall(s)...

They absolutely can - but tanking - I always do it as a default now, especially if it's in an upstairs bathroom where plasterboard or P5 chipboard is concerned. Invariably it's not the tiles or grout (or wetboard) that is leaking when the bath/shower is dropping water down into the kitchen...

Have to disagree - It is if a waterproof anti mould grout is used, properly applied and then sealed correctly for anything unglazed/porcelain. Trouble is some tilers don't have a clue or don't care and customers don't ensure that it's done properly.

Absolutely, and of course any size of PVC pipe can normally be had these days but that's specifically PVC pressure pipe, hence the price. That's more for commercial or industrial use and is specc'd up to 10 bar to can carry mains potable water etc. It is also chemically resistant so can be used...

Wet wall or tiles is really a personal preference IMO, though it is easier and quicker to install. I hate the stuff though, it just doesn't feel right, feels and looks cheap to me and the finish is so 'manufactured' if that makes sense - fitted it a few times and always go back to tiles. To...

I guess the only trouble with it being 75mm is - there isn't any standard 75mm plastic for soil stacks, cast is the only stuff that comes in 75mm, which in essence is 3". Closest is either 68mm rainwater or 82mm soil pipe, which seems a bit stupid if the regs quote that size.

Usually draining it gives a good indication, then filling it from the top and draining again after it's all been churned up. Only way to be sure though is to remove it, turn it upside down and flush it. That is more so for gravity fed open vent HW cylinders though and it's usually down to a...

The trouble starts when there's a lot draining at the same time, and what volumes are in play, that's where the min spec comes from to release both negative and positive pressures. The regs are usually best case and would 50mm work, probably. The regs are more for when the LABC comes along and...

OK - Try it again, say around 6pm - that should be when the district main's under a typical high load, again with the gauge on the outside tap with a couple of outlets running. That'll give you the worst case scenario. Good to hear about the vertical cylinder as most clients I hear about that...

If the stack you want to move is dry and is just to vent then yes it can be moved, where to is the issue I would suggest. Any dry section of a 110mm vented stack needs to be of sufficient size to vent the wet section of the 110mm soil pipe adequately, hence the min dimensions. You'll find it in...

The benchmark is there to ensure that the Unvented (edit) has been installed as per the MI and that everything is as it should be. The mains supply to the unvented does not really come into it as far as the size of the pipe is concerned. The preferred solution to satisfy an unvented cylinder is...

OK - you need to check that :- a) when the hot water is on at the programmer that the valve to the HW cylinder is getting 240v @ the brown wire and 240v @ the grey wire, b) if so and the motor moves and opens the valve when powered on, once fully open then make sure there is 240V @ the orange...

You have an S plan using a combi. you have 2x2 port valves - 1 will connect to the central heating, the other to the hot water cylinder. Does the system have a programmer/timeclock? Has that been checked and is it switching the HW on? If so then chances are the microswitch to the one...

An electric shower uses flow, controlled by the big temp control knob, and heating elements (usually 2) to vary the temp @ the shower head. Depending on the power setting, typically it would be - Cold (no heating element) > ECO (one heating element) > MAX (both heating elements) and that sets...

All depends on what fitting it's going into and how deep that is, given that's a "cylinder connector" If the female fitting is deeper than the male fitting plus the rubber seal then no it won't work and tape/cord would be needed, if the male fitting length will run to the bottom of the female...

What model of WB is it? There probably will be a 2 port valve out on the flow to the cylinder. Where that is is anyone's guess though it would make sense to have it close to the cylinder. Either that or cabling/power may have dictated where it was situated.