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More than enough - the radiator works by it heating the air it draws in from below and circulating that out the top and out into the room, it won't lose a lot of it's efficiency being close to the sofa No but I bet it got there quickly .... used to have a TVR Chimaera ;)

If you can only fit one rad then I'd use a conventional, albeit contemporary design, if you want it to look good. A Type22(K2) radiator behind the couch is proven to work well, as long as there is a reasonable air supply allowed to get to the bottom of the rad and a little space left between the...

Absolutely

If that's 9mm OSB onto proper batons then it should be ok. Try and pick up the batons for at least the top brackets and use nice large fixings, or if it's easily opened then run an extra baton in for the top brackets

Honestly - I've had clients ask me to pull designer, tubular, vertical rads out out more times than I care to remember because they just fail to heat a decent sized room properly. I removed 3 - 550mm x1800mm doubles from my own living room (26m2) because they were woefully inadequate at heating...

Heat loss calcs are designed to provide the amount of heat that a given room can lose in an hour in Kw, that is then matched to the output of the radiators at a given delta that can then replace that heat loss, that is then designed to ensure that the space is comfortable to be in. Unfortunately...

When you say horizontal, how do you mean? Just a normal convecting radiator or a designer type? You do get flat panel, contemporary looking rads that are convectors BTW.

What is the void being filled with, on top of the KS, to create the thermal mass? Is it to be a biscuit mix? I'd also be looking to insulate the loops under the joists. I guess if to be picky then the loops could have gone through the joists and the insulation extended.

The trouble with these new designer tubular radiators is the way they heat. Classic type white radiators primarily use convection to heat the air that is drawn up through the radiator/fins and then out into the room, that cycle continues and heats the room quickly and efficiently. Their output...

Looks like the sub standard brass casting and finishing that lots of stuff ends up like these days. A lot of it comes from Asia and is produced en masse. Will it alter the performance, if it's mains pressure then unlikely to notice much difference, lots of taps, mixers, valves etc all have these...

If you are looking at designer tubular type radiators then be aware of how they work, compared to normal convection type radiators. Albeit their output may be similar, the way they heat the space (air) in the room isn't the same, they are a lot less efficient at space heating than traditional...

Water hammer is primarily down to badly located/run/loose pipework that knocks against itself or something else. When a hydraulic shock is created by a fitting/valve/outlet opening or closing too quickly - usually in higher mains pressure systems - that shockwave then travels along the pipework...

Oh my - oldy but goldy - anything possible - but it could be a struggle to get the large cap off that cylinder. It will either go ok or it will burst the top of the cylinder. That will need a pair of stilsons and possibly some heat but again, that could compromise the cylinder.

Yes - normally I wouldn't suggest using the boiler isolation valves, as some don't like being used if they are old and then leak afterwards but you want to force the water through the rads and any crud flushed out to be ejected out of the drain offs, you don't want any of that running through...

Ah - no , not the boiler drain point. I'm taking about a full system drain(s), external drain valve(s) run off of the central heating, usually set below floor level on an outside wall, where the whole system can be drained down. Some systems have radiator valves with drain points...

Start with the parts that don't cost anything. I presume you mean 1.5bar, not PSI? No, raising it to 3.5 bar wouldn't make any difference, 1.5bar should move any airlock. If there's no flow then either the loops/manifolds are restricted or the pump isn't circulating. Do the manifolds have...

Are there 2 system drains, hopefully there is. One for the flow and one for the return. Or if filling loop is on the return and the drain is on the flow or vice versa then fine. Shut off flow and return on the boiler - Shut down all the rads leaving one open, then open the drain and run the...

Unfortunately - with the blending valve in between the manifold and flow/return on the CH system then that will cause a restriction to the powerflush. Even then, to do a powerflush properly, the machine should be connected to each radiator individually and the flow run forward and reverse while...

Yep - if you are handy and don't mind the trench work then time to dig down at the location. Even then though, it may be time to replace the whole thing, if it's gone at one place then it may go again later down the line somewhere else.

Nah - there isn't any software I've ever comes across that can take the place of real world experience and know how for the domestic or DIY level. Mostly it's all for large design works being setup by engineers etc where material costs, tolerances and flows/pressures etc is absolutely critical...