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Typically 66% on the ones that break up.

My current aerial was put in by pointing in the direction of Kilvey Hill ..... and I adjusted for best reception. just wanted to align better if I buy a new aerial. Where I live is not a strong signal area - SA10 6HR Unfortunately there is part of village (confirmed in maps above) which is...

On TV it shows strength at 66%. Quality 97%

Occasionally getting breakup on some channels, so I intend putting in a newer aerial. Obviously makes sense to align it optimally. I see many ‘bands’ of alignment meters, that all look like made in same factory …these are digital supply with 4 strength led’s ( eg Proception at ToolStation is...

I used rotary brushes in a drill … so got rid of anything loose.

I realise what it is, I could get 500ml of KURUST delivered cheaply next day ..... was happy to pay £6 Nice pretty colour where it has been active.

I appreciate your explanation, but I won't go that route, (no tub big enough, no 20A charger) I have removed all loose rust with severe power wire brushing. I will apply a rust converter, and then 2 coats of Hammerite.

I have KURUST it's a well proven rust converter, and will treat all of the metal with this before painting

Would need to be a huge barrel ..... the ramps are over 1m long and as per the video they need to be suspended not sitting on the bottom. I'll go with neutralising the rust

Not according to Hammerite web site .. only any loose rust, they do claim & lable the product as 'Direct to Rust'

Too big, so just looking for the optimum way to treat. I had a set of trailer wheel sandblasted & galvanised .... which worked well, but too expensive for a £20 set of car ramps.. I have wire-brushed with power tools so loose rust off ... I have decided to get a bottle of Rust Converter...

Even though it says to use 'direct to rust' you think using a primer first is better.?

Hammerite it is ..... I have several part tins of Hammerite. I'll put Hammerite 'Smooth' as the first coat, then once cured Hammerite 'Hammer finish' on top. Used Hammerite many times - only failing in on external metal work with Hammered finish the 'dimples' don't protect so well .... and...

Have a large pair of Car ramps ….mild steel angle iron. Looks like never painted, probably got 20 yrs of surface rust. Metal is sound .. what options can you suggest to clean off surface rust and then treat surface. I could just wire brush and paint with direct to rust hammerite ? (Or more...

Excuse subject .. not sure of correct name. I have a thermal store, the heating output is via a pick up coil in store … The tank unions connect to a Thermostatic blending vale … the output of which is fine … via pump and as you would expect a pair of pump service valves. So should I want to...

OK .. itis the original hollow space dielectric. I bought rolls of 'CT100' from Maplin. The key bit you have confirmed is remove the copper tape .. Looked at the web page you mentioned, and good to know that the foil & braid semi-airspaced is good performance. None of it is outside so no...

The coils of the cable are labeled as CT100 ? ... anyway its all installed.

I have CT 100 run out throughout the house to central wiring cupboard. (accept you might not use CT100 now) I have CT100 Crimp on connectors. Anybody familiar with this ... CT100 has a solid core, dielectric, coper tape shield and then copper braided screen. Do you remove the copper tape...

When I wired out the house I included RJ45 outlets in each room (multiples in some) wired back in CAT5 to a centralised patch panel. Been great as I can patch phone or Ethernet Data connection to any outlet. Just been converted to Fibre and with it comes Digital Voice … I have a ‘single green’...

At 4" thick (typically) ... so both sides would reduce width of garden bed by 8" .... too much garden would be lost. Unless someone has a suggestion of some edging which is less than 4" thick, which can still hold soil in place.