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As above ive managed to do it couple of time when pipework in stud wall using a fast fix kit. By the way matt black brasswear soon looks crap unless you have a obsessive cleaner.

For anyone with half a idea strait forward. Undoubtedly blocked near pump/open vent cold feed connection. Repipe add decent filter refill add X400 run for 4 weeks drain cold flush if needed . Refill adding inhibitor. Run of the mill stuff but not as well paid as throwing a combi on wall.

Take you spoke to Worcester? Doubt they know one end of a camray from another. Which mode of camray? 3 or classic? Perfectly simple to convert to sealed system done many some from new others retro fit.

But a young one ! First fitted a boiler (under supervision) in early 1969 vulcan autostat. Still working fitting a 70kw Grant next week. As above don't get a combi especially from s box slinging team.

Yes the white hexagon is shut of valve. There should be a black plastic extension to fit in it . Br carefully not to tighten down too much I've seen then open again. But as mentioned from your boundary onwards the service is your responsibility.

Probably not what you want to hear but I would seriously consider converting to sealed system. Simpler pipework no open vent or feed tank. With existing boilers we generally run system at 0.2 bar above system head.

I would strongly advise against a combined vent/feed . I used to see them on a regular basis (heating team in this area were very fond of them) odd ones can be OK but I've regularly found systems to be absolutely filthy. Plus as already mentioned combined vent/feed systems are notorious slow &...

Is your boiler installed on a standard low level flue?

Probably needs eye's/ears on! Take it you have a combi?

First it's not exactly unusual for a modern wc not to clear first flush However that soil connection is absolutely dreadful I take it the contractor arrived on horseback? As above loose the flexi id have probably cut clay under collar then a suitable adaptor 90°bend and solid pipework...

Your really over thinking it! As above if they are outlets they are under next to no pressure. Use loctite 55 when it starts getting tight and in correct orientation stop. You can 'back ' loctite 55 up to quarter turn even on pressure connections.

I've recently fitted a 450 x 250 chrome flush pipe made by bristan (heritage) cost over £40 but quality was stunning.

Assuming face's are flat just change washers either rubber fiber or we now use kevlar washers on flat faced joints. Don't over tighten.

You must have found same data sheet I have! Agreed may have been inadvertently set for gas oil at some point. The data sheet says flue gas temperature at test point presumably boiler test point. From memory on the camray 5 there was often a large difference from temperature at boiler test...

Try shower doctor.com I wish you luck with valve been from Wickes. We always use someone like Bristan or Mira for brassware way more chance of spares been easily available.

Where are you measuring flue gas temperature ? What type of flue?

Just dug out my old commissioning data for 150/200 Mid range (50kw) nozzle 1.50 x 60° W 130psi 11.5 co2 flue gas at test point 225/235C That's for kero. Even on lowest output it says 1.35 x60° W nozzle at 120psi 11co2 and 210/220 flue temperature So your flue temperature look very low .

As above make rad look right the heating water won't care. Back in mist's of time I fixed rads dead level then get told they were out! off course they weren't but floor/window cill was out of level. Since then thousands of rads later I haven't a clue if they are actually level but they do...

We have used 4 port blending valves (with motorised thermostatic control) to achieve correct return temperatures. Basically boiler flow in to blender , heating flow out, system return in, return to boiler . One system we did with a 70kw Grant boiler had a requirement from customer of a max...

Another vote for some sort of leak sealant Needs to be flushed out!