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I bet there's loads of peeps around trying to get rid of hardcore: try Freecycle

You may actually find a hammer and bolster quicker as you can get a lot of energy into a single wack. It looks as though you have a tile lifting chisel in the drill: they are great but I adapted a longish shafted bolster to use by hand. Cut about 2/3 through the blade with my trusty angle...

Step2 then, ask BC if they are happy. All the padstone needs to do is to distribute the beam reaction into the masonry under so the latter isn't overstressed (think snowshoe). The bigger the load or the weaker the masonry, the bigger the padstone has to be. If BC remotely concerned about...

Your safest option is to get the SE to confirm it's ok. What you don't want is a BCO not liking it after it's all done: I'm assuming you haven't done a full plans submission?

Last video intersting: rest of this thread..........

Is that what your SE has designed? You can get L shapoed padstones for this situation

That is superb.

At 60mm across the slab it needs breaking out and redoing. If the high bit is too high then the insulation is compromised, if the low bit is low then the strength is compromised. How far along is the build? This doesn't bode well.

Save the cost of the wacker and buy more type 1 would be best option.

With that hand tamp you don't really need a wacker, just a bit of sweat. Type 1 will compact better if damped down

You want to remove all the topsoil. Top of slab wants to be above ground if you're putting a shed on it. Type 1 should be compacted but you only need a thin sprinkle of sand to protect the DPM. You may need more type 1. Crushed concrete is a good alternative and you can often get it as type 1...

For most beams you'll have pretty symettric loading so the reactions will often be the same.You could conceivably deliberately shed load to the column and new pad by setting it in and having the beam cantilever past it, but that would be unusual, BC may ask for the existing founds to be...

Minimum is 1 in 80 but 1 in 60 generally adopted to allow for some deflection in the roof. If the roof is stiff then yeah you can go that bit flatter

1 in 60 norm so you have a 12m run? Yikes that's a curious design

Shot fired Hilti nail, Matty?

It looks like the end of the rod has been peined out over the washer. Angle grind the head off.

A piush mower would have given her more exercise.

Slab will work fine provided designed for what it has to do. We'd usually just thicken the edges of the slab to beef them up.

Timber is funny stuff: it delects a very long way before it breaks and all the TRADA tables are based on permissable deflections. It is highly likely that even 100 timbers won't break over that span but the ceiling won't be very flat. Youve got 2 specialists giving you advice which doesn't...

I'd use the freezer rather than the fridge and use a bit or emery paper on the edge of the hub recess to mke sure there's no hint of a lip then go for it. Set your stall out properly and do a dry run first. Do I understand you're only going to change 1 bearing of 2? I'd suggest that's false...