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I broke sweat watching that!

Stick is always the preferred option for site work and all you do is lap the bars as normal and effectively lay fillet welds between them. Something like 25/75 (ie 25 weld/75 gap) in 6mm would likely do the job.. Nothing out the way for a half decent welder and the guys out in the sticks are...

Several points worthy of note;: 1. 40 diameters is the normal minimum for a tension lap but is generally adopted universally 2. Hot rolled high yield steel can be welded with a bit of care 3. Swage on couplings (like mahoosive cable crimps) are available 4. An ordinary masonry drill isn't going...

Go on line: what's your problem??

6x6 for sure if wood, but steel would be better long term.

We have an importer very close to us so after you've looked at samples at the fitters, you can go and see the actual piece you'll get, There is quite a visual difference between a 100 square and a huge slab so worth doing.

PPC is your damp proof course plastic these days but you may see a bituminy felt materia; in older properties. It will usual;ly be at floor level and you want your patio to be 150 below it. If you have 8-10 inches then you could afford to raise your level a bit

LABC issued guidance notes after the 2022 change and this guidance includes 150+150 mineral wool for flat ceilings. This is what BCOs will look for so in the real world this is what you need to provide.

Trust a double glazing guy or an SE? Hmmmm. Nobody on a forum can give you a definitive answer, and at the end of the day the only opinion that matters is BC when they check the proposals

If it's part of the deal then he's right! No bad thing to see if there's evidence of historic movement plus Noseall's points.

With a lintel the steel is tensioned before the concrete is placed and only released when the concrete is strong enough to grip it. The concrete then experiences compressive stresses to balance the tension in the steel. Put the lintel into bending and the bottom face normally goes into...

That shows how deceptive single pictures can be. If your pole went in that easy then the ground is really soft and it's not likely you'll be able to do much on the cheap with any hope of it lasting. It might be worth lifting a couple more slabs and maybe digging a hole to see whats actually...

Why do you suppose they are called prestressed concrete lintels, Woody?

That looks like full bed mortar with some fine roots having found their way between it and the slabs. (Good start) You'll need to dig down a bit to see what's below but if it's solid then it doesn't really matter,

PW only kicks in if you are digging founds within 3m of neighbours foundations (not the boundary) AND going deeper than theirs. I always got a PWN agreed if we were within 3m irrespective as it's simpler and safer that way.

Tne 2022 changes mean LABC guidance is now (ideally) 150+150. It was 100+170 hence the availability of a slightly strange thickness

Dependant on your soil and presence of trees you could be looking at >>700 if following NHBC guidance. <30sqm you don't need BR but you do need fire resistant construction. I wouldn't chance 100mm slab if t'was mine.

Normal PSC lintels are straight but on a larger scale prestressed beams are often percambered to improve their performance. The reinforcing bars in PSC lintels are straight because they are tensioned before the concrete is placed. It is not uncommon for post tensioned beams to have curved...

I think they would have looked better without the side upstand. Really weird as they've laid a course on edge on the bottom course as if to deliberately make it higher. No City & Guilds award for this one.

If you dig a bit deeper I think you'll the bricks corbel out from the main foundation