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Yes I thought that, and was looking for some kind of Y connector but no luck. But then I looked at the photo and realised it is all bad. Whilst looking at the photo I saw that the W/D is connected next to the sink and then is the output, so it is logical that it backs up to the sink first...

This is a sketch of the waste arrangement under the kitchen sink. The waste disposer is strong and pushes waste up through the first bowl and the the common overflow. How can I fix this? My solution is to separate the two wastes but then I would need another hole in the wall. Not impossible...

This morning I used the new 30mm socket I bought, and it came out with no fuss. I did not even have to use the wrench, I just turned the socket with one hand and it came off... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0D141B659

Thanks for the suggestion. Unfortunately I need a 30mm box spanner, they are rare or very expensive. I got a 30mm heavy duty socket that I may also use elsewhere. It might not work due to the plastic nut having a very short head. In which case I will need a proper box spanner.

That screw on the photo holds the lever in place, you only need to slacken it a bit. The cartridge is held in with that plastic "cartridge retaining nut". The replacement cartridge arrived without a new o-ring seal and nut (being it plastic). The nut is 30mm, very hard to find box spanners...

Thank you and I thought about that, and then worried it would strip the head right off. But I iwll try, nothing to lose.

I was trying to replace the cartridge on this Hansgrohe tap. The retaining nut is plastic and it is very stiff and distorts when I try to undo it. If I press harder it will snap. Is there anything I can do other than replacing the tap?

They asked me to send them photos and video, which I have done and waiting on further response.

Yes, because the two meters agree 100%, my thinking was there is a conspiracy to defraud the unsuspecting British public... I would not put anything past them. Otherwise it may mean we are really spending all this electricity. For what its worth we are spending about 70% of our traditional...

Because the isolator, a huge box, has an output of a 35mm armoured cable, impossible to intervene, whereas the company's meter only outputs two relatively easier to handle tails. The crimps alone that go into the isolator require a 3 foot crimping tool.

I also have a huge isolator right after the smart meter, but I fitted my own meter between the two, so had to pull out the main fuse. From the isolator we have a 35mm (I think) armoured cable going down into the ground, so not easy to fit the additional meter there.

Just to report back, after about 3 weeks of use, the supplier's electricity meter and the one I installed, match 100%...

Thanks, I have written to Victorian Plumbing, see what they have to say. The order was on the 29 September 2024.

The bathroom's basin mixer tap has become very stiff in all directions (left-right and up-down) otherwise the tap works properly. Other same taps in the house are all OK. They are all about 1.5 years old. hansgrohe Logis basin mixer 100 w/o waste Where should I be looking to fix it? Would...

I wanted to fit another electricity meter, just to check on the company's one, The company's is a smart electricity meter with wifi and a SIM card cellular module, also used by the gas meter. "I" pulled out the main fuse, did the work (20 minutes maybe), put it in again. The electricity smart...

I have two external doors, both PvC, with large glass panes, with semi obscured glass, very smooth on one side and a very fine texture on the other side (Stippolyte). The doors were installed in the past few years. Unlike other doors and windows, where the glass panes were clear and smooth on...

Terrible! there should be a WARNING on the box then. It's hardly been 12 months! Next repaint will be with water based paint then? Not sure how it will take on the existing eggshell paint. Or maybe some specialised paint/chemical for this purpose?

This manufacturer ( cannot recall name ), and another ( MIRA ), both DEMAND a bed of sand and cement, and go to great lengths to emphasize that and absolutely no foam or silicones. Stone resin, flat bottomed, 25mm overall, thinning to about 10mm as you get into the centre where the water...

Yes but a repair might prevent the crack extending further, especially since we do not step on the centre. But at £500 it seems crazy money. Yes, he says he uses foam everywhere and is adamant that the tray was defective ... The manufacturer explicitly specifies a bed of sand and cement with...

We painted the new house 14 months ago. For the walls and ceilings we used Johnstone's brilliant white matt emulsion (which I supplied from Brewers) and for the wood work, doors, architraves and skirtings, we used Johnstone's Brilliant White Eggshell oil based (which the decorator supplied)...