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Looks like a plastic enclosure. Is that allowed? I.e. does the rule about consumer units being metal for fire safety also apply to this? I guess it doesn't, right?

Yes.

This saga is nearly over. I have learned some new things, which is always good, isn’t it? Last time I posted I was going to get a TCT hole saw. But I managed to click the wrong button and ordered a 20mm one instead of 22mm. By that time the heating engineers had arrived to fit the new boiler...

I think that's all a bit pessimistic. Sure there's a lot of "crap" that some might like to put in their baths but I'd be surprised if it's genuinely "toxic crap". I'd distinguish between trees & shrubs, which I'm pretty sure could survive any bath water, and seedlings, which would not like...

If someone has cracked AES, then this is the least of our worries. The greater concern is if the “sad-hacker-kid” / “nation-state adversary” hacks the service provider and obtains the AES keys. But if they’ve hacked the service provider, there are probably a load of other ways they could snoop...

This is prevented only by a layer of encryption (AES) applied at the ONT.

See the mag filter spanner? It is hanging on a pipe coming through the wall from an outside tap. Your arrow points to a push-fit stop end on the cold mains which will be connected to that, via an isolation valve, non-return etc. That was my request. Note how they’ve mounted the boiler slightly...

I guess it depends on how annoying you find the noise from a hood.

My understanding is that what BT (and CityFibre, etc?) are currently deploying is GPON, “gigabit passive optical network”. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GPON The splitters are all passive, and it all uses two wavelengths, one for upstream and one for downstream. Multiple users are segregated...

Does anyone know of a domestic cooker hood that doesn’t contain the actual fan, that would be used with an inline fan a short distance away? My motivation is to reduce noise. Consider some random standard cooker hood: the Bosch DUL63CC50B extracts 350m³/h at 72dB, with that noise right next to...

I've just found a drip from the mag filter connections... which seem to be full of LS-X.

Right; as you can see there is no opportunity to fit it before the branch because they put the tee so close to the meter. Previously there was an undersized cable; I had run a new 10mm cable from the CU while I had the floor up for them to connect. Then they left without connecting it, so I did it.

Well here it is, share any observations if you want: Please forgive the dangling cables; I've said I'll tidy those up once some other things are done. There will be a shelf where the batten is. I am surprised by the lack of strain relief in both the boiler connections (opentherm and black...

Edit: Never mind, I have an alternative solution to my problem. See photo. This particular bit is protecting a recent OpenReach fibre. What's it called, and does anyone know anywhere that might sell short lengths? Thanks. Edit: you can't tell from the photo, but it's a fair bit thinner than...

Leave the doors open (or take them off) for a week and see what happens.

That’s a terible reply from Vaillant (assuming CountryFan is right). You should complain. We should be able to rely on boiler manufacturers’ “support” people to know what they are talking about, as the results could be very serious if they don’t. I mean - can anyone imagine how a “passing...

On which subject, https://electrical.theiet.org/bs-7671-18th-edition-wiring-regulations/faqs/earthing-and-bonding-faqs/ : Which is nonsense. I think they probably meant “sufficient” not “insufficient”. Or what?

I think you’re saying that you believe gas and water underground supply pipes being plastic means that bonding is now more necessary than before when they were metal, right? If so - no, that’s exactly the wrong way around. I would like to think that maybe someone has created a nice simple...

So you reckon I should be drilling relatively fast? Right, maybe we'll discuss that once I reach that point! Yes, it's not completely obvious but the diagram is right. Basically there are some teeth that pop through the pipe and a piece inside that is tightened back towards the wall of the...

And without increasing the danger of cracking the pipe? Remember the initial question was "how can I drill a cast iron pipe without it cracking?", not "can I drill a cast iron pipe at all?". Hence going slowly, using lubrication, etc.