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Right, I found a Worcester Bosch note saying exactly that. I only need to worry if all the upstairs flats are empty - which is unlikely, but not impossible.

Right; I don't think this is heavy-grade and I guess that now I have a hole I can measure the thickness.

I note that e.g. this TCT hole saw doesn't mention cast iron: https://www.lawson-his.co.uk/starrett-sm22-22mm-7-8-tct-stainless-steel-hole-saw Oh, what to do? The test pipe in the garden was so easy. Drilling the pilot hole this morning with a fresh drill was so easy. Now there's actually a...

Latest update: Success, with a new Bosch HSS drill I was through in about a minute, using bursts as described. But: Brand new hole saw, same model as before. It did the first couple of mm OK but then stopped making any progress. I do wonder if it gave up when I first squirted it with water...

Thanks. At one point, I got the impression that cobalt drills might be less suitable for cast iron. Now why was that…. Ah yes: https://ukdrills.com/products/bi-metal-hole-saw Note that their “bi-metal” hole saw says “suitable for: … cast iron”. Now tap on the “cobalt” tab and it says “For...

Thanks for that! “Work hardening” sounds like a plausible and interesting possibility. Regarding drills - some include cast iron in their “suitable for” and some don’t. I now wonder if I should take any notice of that. Tomorrow, I could get a pack of 5 “suitable for metal” Erbauer drills and/or...

Is it PIR or polystyrene? Often polystyrene (EPS) is used in floor slabs, which needs a thicker layer than PIR - but it’s much cheaper, and it’s a win-win if you'd otherwise need to fill that space with hardcore.

So..... Buoyed by my success with the scrap bit of pipe (post #13), this afternoon I have attempted to drill into the real pipe. The material seems to be massively harder. After maybe 30 minutes of drilling (with breaks), it has barely got below the tip of the drill. And the drill seems to...

Compare the rated heat output.

Is it full of rust? Flush it with a hose. Consider replacing it if it looks too awful. I doubt a new one would be significantly more efficient. Right, it could be an old imperial size. You would need to replace it with a slightly smaller one, i.e. 1100mm, and then either adjust the pipework...

Generally it’s not necessary to strip back to the wood.

I found someone with a bit of rusty old pipe in his garden that he was happy for me to take away, and I’ve been practicing; That’s a cheapo Erbauer hole saw, in my old corded drill that I’ve not used for years, set to speed 2. Success; it cuts reasonably quickly with not much force applied...

OK I’m not sure dry / “semi-dry” sand-cement is appropriate, shouldn’t it just use the “normal” amount of water? Not that I know - not my area of expertise by a long way.

What do the installation instructions for the tray say?

No, he’s put a 22-to-15mm reducer into the 22mm straight coupler. Yes there’s rather too much solder but it’s not just filling the entire gap between the 15mm and 22mm parts.

Is it worth saying something - well it's a bit late now, isn't it! Were you there when he nearly burned your house down scorched the wall? Yet another reason to DIY, IMO.

I don't follow your thinking, could you please clarify? At the end you conclude with "11.2 A per phase", which (at 240 V) is 2688 VA. Three of those is 2688 x 3 = 8 kVA, which is kinda 10 kVA allowing for your 0.8 power factor. So that's 10 kVA *total*, not 10 kVA *per phase*. But you say "a...

The inside floor seems to be at the same level as the ground outside. Often this is because the outside ground level has been raised and the original damp proof course has been buried; the fix in that case is to restore the original outside ground level. But in this case apparently the structure...

Thanks, yes the SDS confirms that it contains ammonia.

The instructions for my washing machine tell me to use "ammonia-based cream cleaner" to clean the door seal. Does anyone know of an actual product that means that description? I've failed to find anything so far. Thanks.