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So do you now not have any way to have the heating automatically on/off at different times of day? If so, that seems like a defect. It is common practice, on a modern system of this type, to have a time-clock (“programmer”), a room thermostat, and TRVs. Often the first two combined into a...

But why not use a “normal” thickness? Why so thin?

Have you been doing "internet research"? Beware, there's a lot of nonsense out there. Have you looked at EWI documentation from Kingspan or Celotex?

Yeah I wondered about that. Are you saying that the depth of the window ledge puts it out of zone 1? What is the rule / rationale for this?

Do you currently have (and use) extractors in the kitchen and bathroom? How do you dry washing? Extractors first, if you lack them.

Why EPS rather than PIR?

You seriously went on a course on glyphosate spraying that gave you certificates, and they told you that it was so safe that you can drink it? Please tell me you're making that up. (I've looked up "PA1" and "PA6" and they are real things, issued by LANTRA. Kaitai, was your course suspiciously...

Did they tell you that on your course?

Does the doorbell spec say that it can deliver whatever the solenoid needs?

Hmmm. How long are the wires? Assuming that you're measuring correctly, that suggests that there may be long wires and a significant voltage drop, and you're lucky that the solenoid works at all. Try measuring at the other end of the wires?

I believe that the regs position is that if the network cable's insulation is not rated for 240 V then it should be separated from the mains wiring, i.e. with a physical gap (maybe 100mm?, not sure) or in conduit or trunking. Some network cable insulation is rated for 230 V, some is rated for...

I think there must be some bit of YouTube algorithm or similar social distraction that is amplifying a story about cavity insulation being useless. The reality is that it has been used for ~50 years or so with most properties being absolutely fine. I’ve lived in several such houses. Sure there...

Thank you for finally explaining that. Edit: one further clarification needed: when the rad was fitted on the wall and the mould was appearing, was the radiator actually turned on?

The “untreated wall” numbers that that table look wrong. I’d expect something around 0.5 - 0.6. The benefit of their product looks less impressive in that case…. I find these numbers are easiest to think about if you convert them to Watts and then to £. “X times better” is less meaningful than...

Wickes will deliver almost anything for only £4. There is a good chance of it being warped though.

Let us know what happens. (Anyone want to bet on the outcome?)

It's a cavity wall, so cavity insulation is the obvious choice....

There isn't a radiator. He has removed it. I think he's talking about a patch of wall where a radiator used to be, though it's not very clear. See posts 10 and 11.

Have you considered insulating it?

So the radiator is a red herring then; it’s just a patch of cold wall. What is the construction of the wall?