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Better to do this then try and repair the plastic one? If can swap the top body of it

I think with the lever valve facing the front I wouldn't be able to shut the inspection panel

Good idea

But you think that is a better option?

22mm lever valve or 22mm brass stop tap? I will have to cut the back of the unit out abit

Thanks yes I have spoke to there technical department. The say you can screw the hole body out and replace the body

It just spins when you try to turn it off. Could it be the spindle below is broken? Or the head is rounded off?

Obviously dont want to strip the shower down if it's a external problem

Id have to check that. Could unbalanced supplys case it?

Its high pressure of a unvented cylinder. So should be of balanced cold so both supplies to it 3bar.

Attached

This is that valve. Not sure it looks serviceable.

I have a concealed shower that is banging when on both the big shower head and the small shower head in the riser any ideas? Divertor valve?

Its a new valve a year old so could be something like that. It just could be spining and not moved the spindle below

Could of rounded off the plastic handle so not turning the spindle underneath?

Are these serviceable at all? Have one that won't turn off. Thanks. Its possibly be over turned and spinning though it's presently in. Not seen the valve yet.

I haven't been to the boiler yet. But in correct in saying E1 is a low pressure fault. Do the pressure sensors ever block up on these often? Also does anyone no what the main HEX is made of on the boilers?

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Yes would be solid ones I think would look poor though too 75mm extensions either side Edit It would be 80mm too short for the current pipe centres so two 40mm extensions or an 80. Still I think would look poor

Yes I thought of that would need like a 75mm rad tail extension for each side. Don't think would look very good