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Oh good, we are making progress. Your timeclock has 3 outputs When Water is on it sends live up the water on wire which connects to the orange of the zone valve (interrupted by the cylinder stat) When heating is on it sends live up the heating on wire, which connects to the white of the valve...

Yes. Shouldn't use plastic liners on compression. Dont forget a piccie of your finished job

This (I think) was while valve is in water only position. Correct? This indicates that the valve is lettng by (not closing off the heating circuit fully) You may be able to remove valve head & (pair of pliers or something) operate the spindle repeatedly & see if that has freed anything up enough...

Possible but I am assuming a bit of movement possible as he managed to get the pushfit in.

You can cut the grab rings with a pair of wire cutters which will simplify removal. 2 x stainless steel liners Don't think you will need 4 x compression sockets but you can always take them back. 2 x stem elbow (s/fix 20071)

Did you mean that or did you mean pipe to heating? Valve never moved to heating only position so perhaps hw off line from t.clock is not functioning. To test this, hw & CH on & turn cyl stat down. Does valve now go to H & pump & boiler run. Does operating room stat now turn pump/boiler on/off

Motorbiking, Do you have a screwfix by you? If not where would you shop. We can probably do you a shopping list if you want.

You dont need paste either but I always put some on. Many folk put a bit of tape around the olive instead of paste. It all helps, particularly if the surface is a bit scored by the teeth of the pushfit.

Can you see the safety valve discharge, usually drilled through the wall to outside, beneath boiler

Can you see any motorized valves anywhere? 1 pipe in, 1 pipe out (2 port) or 1 pipe in, " pipes out (3 port)

Conex tees and stainless steel liners. If the 22mm is actually 3/4 then use imperial olives. It looks as if the right hand plastic may be pulling the copper across therefore out of alignment so you could put a couple of male/female elbows in to better line things up.

To remove clock, loosen bottom screw (usually 2 but in your case it might be one), pull away from wall at bottom and unhook from top.Forget that for now as we should explore the symptoms further. Here is what should happen: W on, ch off. pump & boiler run, valve to W W on, ch on, r/stat turned...

Turn power off so that if you touch a terminal while removing clock you will be safe. Now turn power back on. What happens? Now replace t.clock so that there are no accidents. At this stage we are just trying to establish for sure what the symptoms are not what the problem is. It could be, valve...

This does not now appear to be the case. On the side of your 3 port valve you have an indicator to show water, mid or heating. When you switch water & heating on & off does this indicator move at all? Turn electrics off. Remove timeclock from backplate (2 screw beneath need loosening). Turn...

That won't really work. Turn off & drain a rad, remove plug & vent, tip inhibitor in. Usually just screw a fitting in to form a funnel. Replace plug & vent, turn rad back on & vent, job done. Or as Sandylyon said.

It wont be clock or thermostat. It is just about possible that it is clock AND thermostat. Most likely is a bit of muck in 3 port valve so heating is off but port is not sealed. To test, turn on heating only, if not possible on your clock, put it on water only then turn cylinder stat right down...

My little angle grinder does not have a locking switch, it has a switch that needs to be slid back & then pushed in for safety. In gloves, not possible, slightly sweaty, not posssible. This means that you have to change your grip, switch it on, then change your grip back again while keeping it...

But before you cut holes, have a really good look at the pipes to the towel rail, wipe them with a tissue, just to make certain that it is not just a leak from pipe to valve connection dribbling down the pipe to below the floor.

As old & Bold but when you have shower off the wall look in the inlets to the valve for a pair of filters and (hopefully) clean the muck out.

So if you put it on water only does the heating still run?