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It's not on those ikea type wheeled runners. It seems fixed to the runners.

Any ideas how to remove this front drawer to make accessing these pipes that bit easier? It's not the lift and pull out type. It seems to be fixed to the runners.

Would sound proofing make any significant difference? I've not had time to replace the P trap under the sink with an anti-syphon version. I'm hoping that will at least eliminate the gurgling under the sink.

I've only had this place a month and due to many boring reasons, I've not long actually moved in and then started finding all the problems. I think it was done in 2019. It's 4 flats over 3 levels in a listed mill conversion. Two share the ground floor, including me. Two share the top floor, and...

I now think the source of the noise is from my upstairs neighbour's pipework running behind this boxing in my kitchen. I can hear it plain as day standing next to it. The poor quality of plumbing in this conversion is beyond belief.

I'm sure I have nuts in a bag of plumbing spares but not olives. What size olives do I need?

If you look at this photo then it looks like the pipe has PTFE tape under the valve. Why?

I'm wishing I checked this before buying the taps. The instructions show G3/8 (see photo), which I thought meant 15mm internal diameter. The valve says 15mm too but the external diameter is nearer 20mm when I measure it.

Why don't the new 3/8 tails fit?

The supplied manual does say 3/8. Really dumb questions coming up: 1. Is the other end the new valve you suggested the same size as the one I'm replacing? 2. Is turning off the water supply at the stop cock enough before removing the existing valves? 3. Do these valves require PTFE tape on the...

Apologies for the delay in replying. All I can see are two hex screws. One at the top and one at the bottom. The glass slots into the frame, which is screwed to the wall. As an aside those are probably the wrong type of screw for this job.

I've just but two Hansgrohe Vernis taps to replace some grubby existing taps, but the flexi pipe tails have a smaller connector than the existing ones. The new ones are 15mm and the existing ones roughly 20mm. Is there a simple way to connect the 15mm tails to the existing isolator valve? The...

My head hurts after reading this :eek: All I can say is they are working as required. I switch the light on and the fan comes on, then it goes off 5 mins after I switch off the light. If I switch off the isolator then the fan goes off. I'm not concerned about it resuming operation when I switch...

It turns off the fan, but switching it back on allows the fan to resume it's cycle.

I've got the extractor timers working by switching off the power at the consumer unit before moving the jumper to different pins. I had only switched off using the isolator switch before. I've no idea why this would make a difference but it has.

Private seller I think. Bought 2 of these. I read in a related thread that the type of lighting can affect the timer, but I didn't understand the very technical explanation.

Oh you think that's the problem? Damn. Was an eBay purchase. Doubt I'll get my money back.

I've installed a Domus STF100-T extractor fan, which I bought as a like-for-like replacement for a broken Silavent GTF100-T. The fan has an overrun timer controlled by a jumper and 4 pins. It's supposed to be adjustable for 5, 15 and 30 minutes, but no matter which two pins I connect it runs for...

Or so I thought. I only did a short check before returning to finish the job today. The fan has an overrun timer controlled by a jumper and 4 pins. It's supposed to be adjustable for 5, 15 and 30 minutes, but no matter which two pins I connect it runs for 30 minutes. It's a Domus STF100-T, which...

That's why I also asked about preventing further gunk build ups.