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I double-checked and the recommendation is in fact to use an orbital sander with diamond polishing pads. Although I've seen videos recomending polishing with a grinder with diamond polishing pad, my concrete countertop guy says a grinder goes too fast and will throw too much water around...

They didn't. I'm going to polish and seel the whole countertop and kitchen island. I'll ask about the sealer. I think they use water base sealer but not sure.

The advice I received from the manufacturer of my concrete worktop might be of use to theirs so I'll post it here. The advice is to wet-polish the concrete countertop using a grinder with diamond polishing pads. Then seel with a concrete sealer. I'll post results once I've given it a go.

The water stains mostly on my washing up drying board as seen in the pic are largely due to me not following the care regime you mention although I do use chopping boards and make sure nothing acidic touched the concrete.

Hi. Yes it is sealed, or at least it was 10 years ago when it was installed.

Unfortunately, applying any acid to the concrete will leave a permanent stain. This is one of the downsides of a concrete worktop.

The worktop is made of concrete. The white marking on the worktop is limescale.

I'm more inclined to go for the rusty look of corten steel. If you know of companies that will cut to size then do share. I'll search also.

My London water is alkaline and limesale sediments have accumulated on my concrete kitchen top. How can I remove it without damaging the concrete? The pic shows the worst affected area.

I think so. I'll use black tile or corten steel as edging. I'll get some samples and see which looks best.

I think I might get a piece of corten steel to edge the end of the path

I would like to finish off the edge of a path that was laid by my builder and is looking a bit rough. The terracotta tiles are 22mm thick and laid on a concrete base. Would it be possible or sensible to cut the end of the path tiles at 45 degrees, and to use leftover tiles also cut at 45...

Just to add to the advice already offered, don't forget eye protection and mask!

I think my original question was a bit confusing. What I'm trying to do is finish the edge of a path that's looking a bit rough. The tiles are actually 22mm thick and my idea was to cut the end of the path tiles at 45 degrees, and to use leftover tile also cut at 45 degrees to cover the ugly...

I'd be grateful for a recommendation for 1. a good 45 Degree Tile Chamfering Tool for Angle Grinder. I've seen a few on Amazon but the reviews are not good. Can someone recommend one that works well please. 2. Good angle grinder that's got enough power to cut 3cm terracotta tiles TIA

Thanks Wayners. Unfortunately the installer used insulation foam that stuck to the painted doorframe, mostly at the bottom. Is there a way of removing it without damaging/scratching the doorframe paint? TIA

I had a new front door fitted. My builder proposed to repair my doorway with a pole filler. What is a pole filler? I would ask my builder but his English is basic and he isn't very clear at the best of times. Can someone explain what is a pole filler? Or does he mean polifilla? Also how could...

The combined thickness, the door and the two escutcheons is 82mm. Is there a thumbturn cylinder that will fit in my door without a gap shown in the second pic?

Outside photos as requested

I had a new door made and ERA locks fitted but the thumbturn cylinder lock looks the wrong size. I don't know the dimensions of the lock but the door is 55mm thick. There's an 8mm gap as seen in the below pic. Is this normal? I'd like there to be no gap. What cylinder dimensions are the right...