Search results

We have one of those, with rigid plastic ducting connected. It cost an absolute fortune, but I suppose it looks nice.....

If you want the threshold to be low, you need to cut however much you need really. So yes, cut down 80mm. Maybe check with the supplier first though. 80mm would be a hell of a step if you did nothing.

Ideally a 9" grinder, as you need to cut the thickness back of the frame. But if you haven't used one before they are a bit scary. A 4" grinder could be used, but would need to cut it a couple of gos. Then a SDS breaker with a point bit, to remove the concrete.

I got my units mixed up when I read yours! I’d cut to about 40mm, so threshold plus 10mm.

Yes grind it to the correct levels, or a bit below so you can get a bed of mortar against the frame. Cills are 30mm on PVC windows and doors, assume you mean that and not 300mm?! I'd cut 320mm if you are aiming for flush threshold inside, unless the door has a low threshold.

Hopefully it’s overcast, as I found water based adhesive gripped immediately and didn’t allow much movement afterwards. Made resitting and rough bits hard work

Firestone looks like a tyre inner tube. Hertalan looks a lot nicer and isn't shiney.

I'd go with careful tbh... you don't need to score it very deep. I understand it's not ideal.....

That might not be fun if the grinder snags on the wood.....

Hi Stuart, It is block work on the old and the new, albeit 60 years different in age. The fireplace was brick, and that was entirely removed. Seems to be very very many products suitable for repairs... just have to pick the right one?!

I had a good go at this today, taking on board advice but being a little restricted on filler choices (Its Jersey!) - PVA'd the areas I'd removed the plaster, and laid in 4" skrim. Added a layer of Toupret Fibarex filler (Says external use but imagine its fine internal). Waited about an hour...

There was in fact tape in there, I assume @ree has spotted the square markings in the hardwall where the skrim was attached... I used it to rip off the loose plaster.

I was thinking, as the cracks were hairline, that it was just settlement from when the new bit of wall was built. Im concerned about damaging the wall further if I dig out the hardwall, and the very solid sand and cement on the original wall. The background join is the meeting of the old to...

Thanks everyone, It's only the thickness of the skim I've removed, so about 2mm - will I get 2 coats of filler in there? I have a plastering trowel, so best use that to keep the filler flush? Ive done loads of filling in the past, but never really to repair stuff like this. I always hear how...

9 years ago we removed a fireplace (Between 2 rooms), and had the space blocked up, with concrete blocks on wall starters. The whole wall was re-plastered each side. The original walls had s&c as a base, the new section was Hardwalled. 4" scrim was used where they met. One side had a...

Which volume should they put? As bagged, compacted, once the required amount of water is added, once its set? It's on the purchaser to dictate the end volume dependant on the intended usage. Plaster tells you the area it will cover at a given thickness, based on the amount of water being...

Are you insulating for heat retention, or sound transmission?

Half price per bag (50p). Some non-original stuff is fine or even better than original, but this was not a winning one.

Minor disaster, but a caution for others.... I've had my trusty Numatic (Big Henry) vacuum for about 9 years. Last year I found online some much cheaper bags, that claimed to be the same spec. as the genuine ones - the genuine had been getting a lot more expensive. I used a few of these new...

Acetone is good for getting colourfill off, even when dry