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Those timbers that have been used to infill the chimney aren't right. It should have new sections sistered to the existing above and below, running over 800mm each way, with 3x M10 bolts each side at 200mm offset centres , with toothed washers in place. But, it may 'do' as it is.

es, the bathrooms are to be lowered. Nice trick, and I'd never have thought of it! As it happens, I need to remove the floor, anyway. I need to run the 110mm drainage underneath, and lifting the joists seems like an easier method to do that. The joists only serve this space, so lifting them...

Added span info, oops! 2.2m

We are trying to keep the entire house floors flush throughout. The bathrooms are all going to be tiled, and so a tiler has recommended allowing 20mm for this. Current floor beams are 125x50mm rough sawn, span between sleeper walls is 2.2m. I am keen to avoid having to reduce the sleeper...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Milwaukee-4932471357-One-handed-Tool-free-Integrated/dp/B082L14L7D I started using these a couple of years ago, and really rate them. - Flip easily - Cuts string closed - Blade change is very easy and tool-less

Sand and cement will make a good base coat, if you have plastering (washed) sand, but more work than a bag of Hardwall. You will then need plaster to make the top coat, usually Thistle MultiFinish.

Concrete (typically 20mm stones, sand, cement, water) is for foundations, and concrete blocks Mortar (Sand and cement (4 parts to 1 part approx), water) is for attaching blocks or bricks together in a wall Cement is just a component, rarely of any use just on it's own.

If it looks wrong, it is wrong. They need to re-board it.

A strip of 4mm MDF glued to the back of the architrave would do it, then just plane it back where the plaster gets in the way. 4mm... or whatever thickness you find you need to make up. Where we had the walls re-skimmed and later project new door linings, I used 18mm architraves on one side...

Mortar wont work anywhere near that thin. Clear CT1 or Sticks like would do it. But if you use too much and it gets on the face, it will go shiny until it weathers off.

https://www.dunelm.com/product/ashton-metal-double-layer-extendable-curtain-pole-1000234915 They aren't that expensive..... we used this in a room

There is some condernsation higher up, but very localised. This is only happening between 2 or 3 pairs of rafters, so I wonder if it is a weakness in my insulation on those, and I just need to get in there and re-pack those 3 areas. The rest, and there is 18metres of connection between the...

I packed 200mm Rockwool between every rafter from the flat roof side before the ceiling was fitted. I cut it around obstacles to ensure a full fit, and looked from the loft side for any light leaking. I did try to do a good job of it - thought certainly went in. What would be a standard detail...

Any further thoughts appreciated? :)

Isn't this very dependant on whether its an exterior wall or not? An internal wall is likely studwork (Metal or timber)

What roofer doesn't check the falls? The lack of firrings would be a quite obvious indicator..... all they had to do was throw a level around a few times and at least alert you or the builder, and then decide who was paying for and fitting firrings. However, self managing isn't always...

Could you elaborate....?

The original house is EPS above the DPC, XPS below. The extension is PIR above DPC, XPS below. For the original house, this was really the only solution - IWI is inferior for many reasons. The systems have been in use in Europe for many years from what I have been told, and their weather is...

Access is fairly awkward. Would 100mm of Rockwool do the job? That would be easier, I could roll it longways, and slice into it where each rafter is, and fit around?

Our house was externally insulated nearly 9 years ago, and we have in total 0 problems to date. We also extended recently, and build solid 215mm block, then externally insulated it, too. Window replacements are much the same (We replaced some windows 7 years ago). We moved the windows to the...