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Parallel line being the front edge of the central board, a line which will extend into the left (and right) board - then do the same on the front edge of the left and right board. Tried this quickly on 3 pieces of paper - the angle seems to be around 140 degrees ('ball park figure') - does that...

Putty? Madras? Dark Velvet curtaining?! :) Nope...struggling with that explanation...I think! I'm placing the boards like this below. The point where they bisect is where I'll mark on the front of the boards - this is the bullnose however, and I'm not sure I can exactly follow that round...

I've got some of the pink ex foam...can't say it's a joy to use. I managed to get a small dab on a chair and the veneer will come up before that stuff does. I've added some underneath the front of the board, but you're right in that you can see it would push the boards up (I'd strapped the...

Haha - so it really is another piece of terminology I need to consider (should I be in the 'Sussex' area :) ) Cheers. One more thing - can anyone let me know how to best mark the bisect angles when placing the bay windows boards on the sill? I'm placing the left and right boards down (cut...

Pug? I'm hoping that's a typo otherwise it's something else for me to worry about! Pre drill - as in the underside for the brackets/straps? With regard to the bay windows, I've reset the bricks as level as possible, but there's still the issue of the brickwork (outer leaf) under the windows...

Your post on that original thread was a god send/angel etc etc noseall! Soooo pleased I happened upon it as I really wasn't doing too well with the other method. I think given the sheer 'unlevelness' of what I'm working with, that method was perhaps a little too ambitious for me...lack of...

I'm currently fitting new windowboards around the house (slowly but surely). After a fair bit of help and research I chose a method and set to task. The old boards had been covered in UPVC, which in itself looked a bit of a rushed job. Unfortunately, the wood boards underneath were damaged...

Little update: I'm going to make the size of the 'drop box ceiling' smaller than originally intended - 4'x2' rather than 6'3'. Mocked up a piece with some spare MDF and it works better at that size. Quick question (someone who's been helping me no this is 'lockdown busy' at the...

Well, I'm going to fit some battens to the rear of all the boards which will make the rears roughly level with the front masonry sill (the rear masonry sill being approx an inch lower). I guess I can then pack the boards so they are level all around...not sure how I would temp secure them to be...

Yes - thanks all - will use the front board on top of the side boards to bisect the angles...makes complete sense really. I was perhaps veering into skirting territory (where the verticals come into play...or mischief depending!). Rough mock up, but this is how I understand it....just need...

Hi, I've had a great deal of helpful advice on replacing some old window boards in my house. Not at all straightforwrd (not that I expect anything to run smoothly!) but I've found a method I'm going to use. The section I'm little unsure on is the bay window boards (the others are just...

Hi (jobandknock -I'll give you a bell later today - will text first). I might go with three gaps rather than the original one. I've added picture below...not perfect, but something I've quickly knocked up to demonstrate the shape of the hall. Effectively there are six sides to the ceiling...

Yes on the chamfer now (meant to say groove rather than the curving I alluded to). Just spotted a message you've sent job, so I won't ask any more questions on this at the moment. Fine with the battens and packing out if necessary (if not level) but I'm a little tangled on the extra batten...

Ah - ok...I'll have a think about that then. I bet I've seen loads of MDF ceilings in the stores I get dragged around with the missus and daughters...but presumed they were PB (admittedly I don't go around staring at the ceilings, but from a design point of view I often take a look...

PM sent. Forgot to ask again - would this (second) drop ceiling in the hall be such an issue if it was 12.5 PB? Concern with MDF ceiling is a: I've never seen it in a domestic setting. b: at least with PB the plasterer (for skim) can perhaps hide better any joins. c: issue with...

Sorry - job - been away from the t'interweb for a while. Right...where was I.... Flexing my brain a little more this on job, but I'm not quite getting this part. Ok - first PB ceiling is down. I've now placed 2x1 battens across the entire length(?) of the hall, at right angles to the...

I've just read this first bit of your post, but will finish the second portion after I've replied here. Perfectly understand now. You may have already clarified this, but with the 2x1's, the 1 inch will be for the vertical (i.e. one inch below the PB rather than 2 inch which will be along...

Not sure if I made this bit clear - I'm only have the gap on one side, rather than all the way around (you may have already worked that out!). So, the way I've (mis)understood your new method: *plasterboard up as if final ceiling, the one side where the gap will be, can be skimmed and...

Nope! Do I heck! :) Is the reason you don't measure and cut the bottom MDF frame before installing the 4 sides is that the sides 'bend' (for want of a better word) once attached to the hanging battons? Skewing it ever so? Waht on earth is a laminate trimmer?! I can't actually see how I...

Sounds like the better option. Worried I won't get the joins/joints right though - looking at it now (in my head) I'm assuming it will be like a rectangle box (like a sandpit box for example) which I'll then fit over the frame. A bit like this (sorry - best picture I could find to...