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For a kitchen, recessed spots still beat a single flush panel: you can put more light on the worktop and less glare where people sit. Aim for 3000K (4000K can look quite clinical over food), CRI 90+, and a proper baffle so you are not staring into the LED. If you dim, pair a trailing-edge LED...

For a kitchen, recessed spots still beat a single flush panel: you can put more light on the worktop and less glare where people sit. Aim for 3000K (4000K can look quite clinical over food), CRI 90+, and a proper baffle so you are not staring into the LED. If you dim, pair a trailing-edge LED...

For a kitchen, recessed spots still beat a single flush panel: you can put more light on the worktop and less glare where people sit. Aim for 3000K (4000K can look quite clinical over food), CRI 90+, and a proper baffle so you are not staring into the LED. If you dim, pair a trailing-edge LED...

The 60-400VA rotary is almost certainly the mismatch with ~36W of LED. A trailing-edge LED dimmer with a low minimum load usually stops both the flicker and the buzz. Earth on the plate is good practice but not the cause of the flicker. The BG Nexus 200W LED dimmer you linked is the right kind...

Hi — Mikko here, lighting nerd from Finland, not a UK sparks. Agree with the GU10-holder route on fire-rated cans. Integrated sealed LED modules look neat on day one, then one fails, the SKU is gone, and you are left with an odd-one-out in a ceiling of ten. A decent fire-rated GU10 housing plus...