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Contact your installer would be first port of call. I don’t hold oil fitting qualifications, but sounds like it could be combustion related, so possibly plausible. My advice is to stop using it immediately, you could have a carbon monoxide issue.

It can still affect it, or another mixer. Basically the cold pushing the hot out of the way. Isolate the cold inlet to the boiler and test hot outlets including the shower.

When it next happens feel the flow pipe under the boiler

Yes, there should be a motorised valve and it will be on the pipework, this then receives a switch live from the programmer and cylinder thermostat and then sends a switch live to the boiler.

Either, but you need to tell them exactly what you have and what wants doing as not all of both trades are competent to do this type of work.

I would go with an extension piece with a straight connector or angled/offset if required

Looks ok seal wise, but would be better suited to rigid fittings.

I doubt that's a universal backplate being part of the boiler. It would probably be better a new one and new/altered wiring at the boiler.

Not a full length of timber no, just a certain distance, thus allowing the clips to be fitted.

They look similar to Twyford ones I’ve fitted previously, I just usually drilled them in place afterwards, never had a problem.

I don’t think you’re going to gain much space, as, unless you fit a combi boiler then I don’t think there’s much else to heat your water, unless you get an electric boiler, which I believe are expensive. If the pressure is good, maybe an unvented cylinder? Your existing looks like a direct...

I’m guessing this is supposed to be in the plumbing section. Maybe the mods could move it? Re joining: Philmac transitional coupling? As above, what material? Maybe Polyorc, Uponor, 16mm et al?

G3 registered = Registered under G3 of the building regulations Part G MI = Manufacturers Instructions UV = Unvented

You have a 1/2” x 15mm tail in the radiator and the lockshield in the photo has a 1/2” x 3/4” thread for the valve connection. Are you replacing the faulty TRV with a lockshield?

Holy thread resurrection!

Yep, remember that from the video too :wink:. I find that more of a faff though. I’ve sent those crimpers back today. May get the toolstation ones, may not. I don’t do all that many tbh and none of our sparks seem to crimp, but I do find the odd one that’s been done.

You're just showing off now :LOL:

It wasn’t too bad tbh, once I’d initially figured it out and got the crimp to stay put. They feel decent, but I value your input and it was actually your video that inspired me to get some :wink: so I think I’ll send them back. There’s actually another section - above the 8-10 bit which clearly...

Yep, tried that and seemed good. I just worry a bit. I asked the Spark to who i sent to verify if a cross/link bond was required. He said its better than he would have done!

Yes, i thought that too. Not very clear imo. Who knows. Thats why i asked on here. Tbh, I wss with 2 minds as to send them back, but since they will do for what i want, i'll keep them. I have emailed the company, will let you know if/what they answer