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Have you manually opened the CH zone valve? If so that is why you now get CH heat when the HW demands it.

You said you disconnected the old thermostat wiring from the honeywell wiring centre, the terminals you disconnected the wires from will need to be connected together.

You can not just disconnect the thermostat as you will leave the heating open circuit. In the wiring centre loop the 2 connections together where the thermostat wires were terminated.

I used loftzone...

That sounds odd to me. If the towel rail is on the secondary return then it will only heat up when a hot tap is turned on. As you say off topic so enough said.

I know that. :) Why would you have a radiator/towel rail on the HW circuit?

But the towel rails cant be coming on with the DHW circuit, they will only come on when a HW tap is opened. If they were on the DHW circuit they would have inhibitor.

Are the rooms heating to the required temperatures? If so I don’t think you have a problem based on the thermal images.

How would it look if you screwed a couple of wooden battens to the wall for the brackets to attach to, would that be sufficient for the top of the radiator to then clear the sill?

Radiators should be installed with 150mm between bottom of radiator and the floor in order to maximise the convection capability.

Wiser room thermostats only adjust room temperature. Timer control for HW and CH is all done via an app. I believe Tado is the same.

Sorry, finger trouble ignore the word "other".

Wiser and, I think, Tado aren’t combined thermostat/programmers. The other room thermostats are just that and the programming is done via an app. Wiser still functions with no internet but Tado doesn’t.

The picture doesn’t look like it’s the lockshield valve, the LS will be on the other end of the radiator and can only be turned with a wrench.

That’s good but it is costing you more in energy which is the opposite to what most people want.

You don’t want 70c water flowing around your CH even for short periods so IMO sticking with an S or Y plan with 55c flow temp for both HW and CH would be a better situation than what you are proposing.

With an S plan system you will have the pump in a short (3min) overrun when both motorised valves have closed, the ABV then opens to allow water to flow hence saving the pump. With PDHW the CH motorised valve will be NO so no need for an ABV if you have a radiator always open.

What about when the CH motorised valve closes? You will need the ABV then unless you have a PDHW setup.

Heat pumps aren’t about saving money so don’t think about ROI, after all who thinks about ROI when buying a car! If you want to do something positive for the environment, however tiny that this, then heat pumps are the best way of heating a property. What we need is for the ridiculous price of...

Unless switching the live has blown the PCB in the boiler.