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It’s likely to be either the gauge, the PRV or maybe both that is faulty but a competent gas safe engineer will easily fix it.

Is there a reason why when your dad replaced the 15mm plastic with copper that he didn’t just use 22mm copper which presumably would have fixed the issue?

The Wiser system, gen2 version, can also use other Wiser “smart” devices to detect presence and door/window opening, which could be used to switch the heating on or off. The gen2 hub is more of a “smart” hub rather than just a heating hub like the first gen.

These types of tap are a pain in the a***, IME they always leak after just a few months of use. You will need to order the specific cartridge for the tap and whilst your at it order both for hot and cold.

Oops, updated original post

Yes, the boiler will short cycle which is not ideal for efficiency.

I have 11 radiators and two towel rails, my boiler only goes down to 7kW so I have to have a minimum of five radiators open plus two towel rails (always open).

It depends on the outputs of the non “smart” TRV radiators. I would be surprised if your two towel rails and one radiator added up to your boilers minimum output. Not impossible though if your boiler had a very very low minimum output.

The heat switch will not work without a room thermostat, you will be wasting your money. The Wiser system can be programmed however you want so if you don’t want heating on until 18:00 then set the heating to a suitable temperature at 18:00. It is pretty flexible once you understand the concept...

From looking at the technical documentation the 637 minimum output is 7.1kW. You need to work out what the individual radiators outputs are so that you can judge how many need to be open in order for the boiler not to short cycle.

The heat switch is for electric heaters and only works with a room thermostat.

You could use the wiser plug as you said but you won’t be getting the best out of the system. Wiser expects to have control of the heating throughout the house so that it can learn how the house heats and cools. This info is fed into the hubs algorithm so that Wiser knows when to turn the boiler...

Just forget about the smart label, today’s heating controls are merely a better way of controlling the comfort of your home. Some are better at it than others.

When you connect the Wiser you will need to loop the old thermostat at the wiring centre otherwise the heating will never turn on. To get both heating zones to operate as one just rewire the wiring centre so that the orange from zone one valve is connected to the brown of zone two valve.

There is a v2 Wiser hubr now that might be worth a look. I use the new v2 hubr without IOS issues but having said that I had no issues before when on the v1 hubr.

Change the thermostat after isolating power to the heating system. It’s a very easy and cheap thing to do.

We have a fully insulated HWC and pipe work in our airing cupboard yet the temperature is always around 30c. Only the valve bodies are exposed.

Our heating has never been off. The house is set for 20c in the morning and 21c in the evening with a setback of 18c, last week the boiler fired for heating in the evening but only for very short periods. I think last week was the first time the heating has come on since last March.

To add to the above post..... the flame symbol on either the Wiser app or on the Wiser thermostat only means that the thermostat is in a calling for heat mode and will not necessarily mean that the boiler should be firing as this depends on where it is within the time slot.

Are you using a wiser trv in the bedroom or just the wiser thermostat? It is normal for there to be a delay with firing the boiler due to how wiser works, this is why you shouldn’t mix n match heating controls. The gas or oil boiler setting is in the wiser hub and would have been configured on...