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Have you tried changing the batteries?

Is the flue close to an air brick of fan vent?

Boiler installers tend to do whatever is quickest and easiest for them, was this a Boxt or Heatable install? It looks poor and I wouldn’t be happy either but you will find that they have covered themselves in the t&c’s so as long as it meets installation and safety standards then it’s down to...

There are a lot of things that Drayton claim to be working on but nothing has changed since I installed Wiser 2 years ago.

I get the same issue with pipe banging when the motorised valve closes, I’ve never been able to fix it so now I just manually latch it open once the HW cylinder is up to temp. I keep neaning to change to a PDHW system but haven’t got around to it.

Generally, but not always, the TRV is on the flow and the lockshield is on the return.

Do you have TRV’s on all the other radiators? If so then once they all get to temperature and close the rad in question will get more flow and should heat up more.

A hot input with a lukewarm output suggests the radiator is working.

Its an S plan system so the boiler should be heating the hot water. I wonder if the immersion has been permanently connected to mains via the switch in photo 3.

Turn down the hot radiators lockshields slightly.

the radiator should have been installed level so it doesn't matter which side the bleed valve is.

Turn down the radiators that are hottest and then see if the cold radiators start to heat up.

Today’s smart thermostats need a different way of thinking. In effect the heating is never off, you have a setback temp and a schedule for when you want the house warmer. For example if you normally want the temp to be 21c then the setback temp should be around 18c to enable the heating to reach...

This is a useful resource for converted radiator outputs based on different delta t. https://www.radiatorsdirect.co.uk/delta-t-conversion#:~:text=If

Is the system on a single pump? Does the UFH come on when the HWC calls for heat? Are you using Vaillant or 3rd party controls? How is the system connected electrically?

I have been going through this myself and I have used Heatpunk to calculate my heat loss. It is very comprehensive.

Have you seen the OT adapter below….. https://www.plugwise.com/product/nefit-opentherm-ems-converter/?lang=en

Good video here relating to a system very similar to yours.

Wiser will do most of what you want but the only devices with a screen are the room thermostats. Tado relies on the internet so if the internet is down the heating controls stop working. I use Wiser but my radiators are on a hybrid system of mainly standard TRV's and a limited number of iTRV's.

It’s not a thermostat though, it’s a temperature sensor.