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Yes ! Stick with oil.

DP is right - that expansion pipe coming out of the HW tank is the HW side expansion - nothing to do with the boiler. The boiler must have a separate expansion to the small f&e tank which you say is blocked - get the plumber to cut out the blocked bit and replace it.

Find an appropriate bsp fitting and run it in and out a few times.

Grab adhesive -no more nails etc. must be for outdoor use

Hope there is a separate F&E pipe somewhere else ! That pipe next to the cylinder looks like just an air vent ? However DP you have hit on the problem of the cold rads - the bottom pipe from the cylinder should be restricted so you can balance the flow - a manual rad valve would do.

Just one point - where in the circuit is the HW primary takenfrom. If it is part way round then it would be difficult to separate off the CH. You can cetainly control the HW temp with a valve next to the HW cylinder, controlled by a thermostat strapped to the cylinder. I think you should take...

Pardon me but the old hole is a large square hole so will still need re-working inside and out so you still need scaffolding etc. The old boiler is a balanced flue, not fan assisted. Better a new hole which will give a better fit for the new flue.

Tell him where you want the boiler, same space underneath as the old one. Otherwise get another quote. I think they can drill a new hole and install the new flue from the inside. Trouble is blocking up the old hole and rendering over with cement on the second floor.

Sorry I said temp values ; The same applies to the HW & CH programme settings - they are fixed values that can be saved to memory - the clock needs continous power.

Is the gas (meter etc) inthe garage ? Then a gas convector would be good. Just needs a small flue on an outside wall.

We had a similar situation - new flue above old one, old hole was bricked up to match brickwork. Your problem is being on the third floor. Have the two flats below yours had their boilers replaced ? Strange square white patches on the wall ?

The HW & CH temp settings are static values so can be stored in non volatile memory. However the time is not, so power is needed to keep the timer running. So onpower down you would need a small battery tokeep the clock running - maybe it does not have battery backup or the battery needs replacing.

I came accross a similar problem at my son's house - previously somone had converted to a combi by running the hot all the way to where the old hot tank was to pick up the hot feeds to the bathroom and kitchen. We re- plumbed directly to the kitchen cutting out about 20m of the pipework which...

I would suggest you need the patio cleaning attachment as well - circular thing with rotating jets. It makes a better job of it. Then spray with Patio Magic or similar which keeps the mould in control for months.

Get "pressure treated" not dip treated whatever you get. The orangey ones are dip treated.

"Build up of sediment in the flex" may have something to do with horizontal use ?

Use a louver door for the cupboard door - i seem to remenber you can get various standard sizes, then make the frame to suit. Change to a smart meter - they will check it out when they come to fix the new meter!

https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-sp100-swan-neck-pan-connector-white/87212 This what i ment.

Search for "SWAN NECK PAN CONNECTOR" - It may even be too close ! But watch out for flushing problems. I think the Swan neck is designed to go downwards where an the old soil pipe was in the floor so better check if it will work horizontaly.