Search results

Well after my other post I decided to make my own radiator "knob". This is the MK1 , I may improve the shape later. This works better than the original, more leverage.

There is another post on here saying that looks like there was a screw down the middle and the head of the screw has been broken off ?

Maybe one of the arms is actually screwed in ?

I think he means look around the sides for a grub screw or other hidden fixing, don't force it around.

A none return valve does reduce the flow a little so only fit one for the outside tap.

It may be caked with mud or even plaster or cement. This happens when workmen wash out their plaster bucket down the drain ! Try some more poking around.

Thanks all ! I'll carry on using a spanner for now until the bathroom refurb. The valve has a proper gland so does not leak so no problem.

Go gas ! I understand heating oil has gone up in price far higher than gas over the years, oil fired boilers are probably far more expensive than gas boilers. You'll save space where the tank is and probably where the boiler is.

Here are pics of the valve and knob. The union to the radiator is bigger than normal and the pipe is 22mm or the old imperial equivalent. It is gravity fed off the HW primary so we need to turn it offin the summer.

On some flue outlets you can direct the flue Left,Right, Up, Down or Straight.. You take the end piece off and twist and put it back on to redirect the flue. This may help if you point the flue away fromthe trouble area.

Reduce the HW on time to a minimum to reduce the effect. I had to put TRVs in all the upstair radiators. Just happens in some systems, a convection current finds its way round.

My bathroom rail/radiator has a larger valve with a 7mm square shank. The plastic knob disintegrated years ago - anybody come accross a valve knob with a 7mm square drive ?

Surely, what you have is a power shower already ? It has a small pump in it and I think it mixes H & C then a single pump pumps the water. The alternate is one where you have a twin impellar pump sited remotely which pumps H & C separately and then a mixer valve in the shower area.

This looks like threaded iron pipe screwed into the female ends of the stop cock - very tricky. You can just replace the inards if you can find an exact match - you may have trouble undoing the old one. Best if you can find a similar stop cock and dismantle it, then you'll know how it fits etc...

Is a gas tap also normally installed adjacent to a hob - there is one under our hob.

Looks like the boiler is at the highest point in the system so there should be a way of releasing the air in the boiler - It should have an automatic air vent in there somewhere. But that would be quite slow, so you may consider a manual air vent T'ed somewhere near the pump because you can't...

Stick to a 22 x 22 stop cock as you have - gives better flow - every little helps ! You could replace the lead with plastic blue pipe yourself if the outside stop cock is within your land. Or get a quote from a private plumber.

I think gas in cellars is probably a safety issue, because gas is heavier than air. Any leak and the gas would build up in the cellar and not dissipate There is probably a regulation or special precautions needed in a basement.

At first they will try to push / pull a plastic pipe through the existing steel pipe. If they get stuck at a bend, they dig a hole andcut the steel pipe at the bend and help the plastic pipe along. Where the plastic pipe comes out nearthe meter, they may need 3 or 4 inches extra above the steel...

A "15mm valve" will accept 15mm pipe at both ends, a " 22mm valve" will accept 22mm pipe - end of story ! The valve has olives and nuts, you insert clean cut pipe and tighten nut which compresses the olive onto the pipe to form a sealed joint. The size of the nuts and threads is irrelavent.