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It depends on your perspective to it as to which way to twist it.... lefty loosey righty tighty.

I am going to assume its also some signal/impulse being sent over those AB/SX lines. Guess you will need to either return/not use the switch, purchase a second one, or not have the secondary light switch. I assume its something slightly more complex than a momentary short between them otherwise...

I have no idea how they are handling the other switches over those S & X terminals as they don't seem to follow logic, unless they are sending a specific signal over them that only those switches understand. In which case using an ordinary 2 way switch will not work, and it requires that...

Can you get it to work with only 1 switch wired up and leaving out the other switch altogether? In this instance you would only have a live feed into the switch and the switched live in one of the outs. Can you post pictures of your wires?

Hard to say what you will need as it all depends what comes with whatever you buy and size of wastes etc... taps might come with flexible hoses or nothing etc... you might need some 15mm copper pipe and solder, torch etc.. or maybe you aren't comfortable with soldering so you will use...

Your not trying to match the colours at the light switch's to the colours in that diagram are you?

On a quick glance, L is your common (live feed), then the 3 outs are the switched live for up to 3 different rooms/lights. S & X look like they are for wiring to other light switches, although I cant tell if they can be normal switches or only this type. So the two other wires that go to the...

If its already RCD protected in the consumer unit there's no guarantee which will trip first. You might struggle to terminate armoured cable to that plastic enclosure and indeed you might make it no longer be IP66 rated if not done right. If it is indeed a spur your going to extend then it will...

Its likely that switch requires a neutral, do you have a live and neutral at the switch location? Do you have a copy of the instruction or link to the product you can show us? Also does the product meet British standards and your confident that its safe to use? I would always be very cautious...

Yes that's the connector block to provide mains to the oven, I believe that white connector on the left is the cable entry point. Make sure you use appropriate cable and make a good connection on all 3 screw terminals. This post seems to have the same style oven/connector as yours (don't do the...

Looking good, wish I had some friends with favours I could call in for an extension I'm planning :LOL:

Can you find out what spotlights have been installed? Is there any stickers/information on them? They may/may not be double insulated amongst other potential issues depending what ones they have installed.

Its the 10.8kw model he has.

Well for a start those instructions say it requires 45a and its on a 40a. I would try find out what pull cord they have used as that might be underrated and cause you some issues eventually. Isolate the supply and see if you can see any markings on the back of the switch. Is the shower protected...

That cable looks like its had a bit of abrasion going on in various places, I wonder what the rest of inside that dry lining box looks like. Do you know what pull cord switch they used? Also what does the installation instructions say regarding the fuse rating for the shower? OP can you tell...

Did you previously have an electric shower? If you did, do you know the KW rating of both the new and old one? Did they reuse the existing shower electric cable or run a new cable? Do you know what rating Fuse/MCB is protecting it? Does it have any RCD protection?

There's not even any earth continuity between all the T&E. Do you know what spotlights you have had installed and if they require an earth? I'm going to take a guess that CAT5 cable side is 12v for the LED. But still, its not the right cable for the job. But just looking at those photos it...

For what reason did it fail? Do you have a copy of the paperwork? Also it failing might/might not have anything to do with the leak.

looking at the image8.pdf it looks like this is for use with an hot water heater in which case you have cold in from the mains (A), B is the cold return feed to a hot water heater, and C is your hot water feed. Dan beat me to it.

Absolutely sure, as some more water was forced out the drain off as I was pumping it up. I even did it all twice as I forgot to open one side of the radiator first time and thought probably both flow and return sides need to be open at the radiator. I double checked that the drain off was open...