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It certainly seems reasonable that the refrigerant for a freezer taking in heat at -19° and rejecting it at ~ 35° would be different from an AC unit taking in warm air at 20° and returning it at say 15°. Whether that's the case in practice I don't know. In any case, the pressure after the...

I was wondering about that, as I don't have any figures. I checked vapour pressure of refrigerants using the Antoine equation and R410a is 22bar (320 psi) at 35°C, so 400 psi sounds about right (35° could be too low). Is that the compressor differential? Any idea what the pressure settles down...

I don't see why the process would just stop. At moderate ambient temperature the compressor runs On/Off. As ambient rises the On times get longer, till at ambient design limit it runs continuously. Above that the freezer temperature rises.

Before lashing out on a new pump, it might be worth taking the cover off the terminal box to make sure there's no damp. Perhaps get a hair drier on it.

There has to be a temperature difference between the grid and the air in order to dissipate the heat. The maximum grid temperature must be in the design. Not really. Maybe it's down to type of refrigerant - perhaps some will freeze solid at too low, not a good idea! Perhaps types that can't...

I assume it's that with the installed compressor power there is a maximum heat flow, at design maximum ambient temperature, and minimum freezer temperature. If the ambient temperature goes higher, the heat flow falls, because the grid cannot dissipate the heat. But it would be nice to think...

You've been reading your Karl Popper!

So would I

I wouldn't disagree with that :giggle:

Well yes, there must be a limit on ambient temperature above which it can't do the job

As well as more heat entering when ambient is higher, it has to reject heat via the heat dump grid, which also gets harder. It seems to be doing pretty well! We're not suffering quite as much round here, but it's bad enough. I've had a few, but none has lasted as long as the current Bosch...

Good explanation! I don't think that's quite right, as lower temperature makes it easier to liquefy the refrigerant (in the heat dump grid on the back of the freezer). I would guess it's down to the choice of refrigerant. The temperature in the evaporator must be something like -25°C (at a...

As I said in #101, my current car has tyre pressure sensors installed in the valves (works very well). Tyre fitters don't mention changing them, but I don't suppose the seal into the rim is any less likely to leak than conventional valves. Have motorists been ripped off for decades paying for...

Still not answering. I'm sure you'll be back for the last word, please yourself, I won't be reading any more of your idiotic posts

As usual, don't answer a question, just troll on.

I know you're just trolling, but earlier you said the reason you knew it was losing air was because it wasn't as round as it should be. Apart from that being nonsense, have you done any proper tests, like with soapy water, or immersion in a tank?

So you've no idea whether it's leaking between valve and rim or not. OK I know you're having a game

Yes, a bit odd there is a minimum temperature, I'd have thought the colder the ambient the less work for the freezer! But apparently not. Minimum varies between brands, deffo worth checking before buying. OP's shed likely to get cold.

Is there a flatter bit where it sits on the road? All the more reason to take it back and have a barney with him

If so it's the fitter's problem, so take it back. And you haven't answered but how do you know? Soapy water bubble test?