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(In response to johnD) Yes, I understand this. My question is, how do I hard wire my new oven when all I have is a 3-pin plug socket? Do I simply remove this socket and replace it with a big switch and connect both the mains feed and appliance to the switch, the same as my hob has had done...

I think I may have confused the thread by discussing my hobs electrical supply, which has its own feed to the circuit board, but is at the other side of the kitchen. I was discussing this to try and figure out if I should just copy what's been done there for my oven, by replacing my 3-pin plug...

I can't as they are at different sides of the kitchen. The hob also has it's own 32A MCB on the board.

Ah, you're right, that's for the extractor. Every day is a learning day. I will label that one up.

Oh, I see, mine will be integrated into the kitchen units.

So, I was curious and took the big switch apart. It looks like the mains feed comes into it and the hob connects off of it as well. The fused spur doesn't isolate the hob. Couldn't see anything obvious that stopped working when I switched that off, so I think that doesn't play a part here. The...

Oh, I don't know, I just assumed as much. I didn't fit it as it was here when we moved in. Would it be normal for the electrical feed to come into the big switch and the appliance/hob to connect there as well? If that's the case, I wonder what the fused spur is for. Clearly, I'm no electrician.

Over the other side of the kitchen, I've had a look at how my existing induction hob is wired and I have a switched fused spur connecting to the mains and then the big red switch connecting into that, in which the induction hob is wired. Would I do the same for my oven?

I have a new oven that needs hard wiring. The old oven was connected via a 3-pin plug. The spec states 'Total Electricity Loading (W): 4900' I've looked at the fuse board and the MCB has b40 on it, so I'm assuming that's a 40A, so we should be good in that respect. So my question is, is...

Thanks, anyone else before I go for sand and cement?

Hi everyone, I have a stone wall and path that needs repairing. Can somebody please advise what I should to fix it? A cement mortar or lime mortar? I'm sure I read before that stone walls should be repaired/built with lime mortar so the water can pass through the joints.

Hi Zanc, Did you ever get your EWI done? Did you DIY it?

Fantastic, that makes sense. I will try removing the lever. Thanks.

Hi all, I currently have a leak on my mixer tap. Normally, I'd happily just change the tap, but whoever tiled my bathroom, decided to not allow access via the tiled bath panel. Any idea how I remove the tap heads? There are no screws at the back. Guessing I just pull them up?

I'm no expert as you can tell, but I can't see how pipe no.2 can't be the hot feed from the boiler as it was considerably hotter than pipe no.1..... Surely that can't be correct? Seems like it's time to call in a pro I think. Hopefully, they can make sense of it :unsure:

I'm pretty sure they don't move. This is something the engineer noticed, he seemed to think these should move when providing heat?

Bit of an update. I had my boiler replaced this week and the gas engineer had a nose at my UFH. He noticed that the feed to the pump (1) was cooler than the return (2) and this was confirmed by a thermal camera. He thinks the hot/cold have been installed back to front. He's happy to come back...

Good luck, let me know how it goes. As I mentioned, that's exactly what I'm trying to avoid, somebody guessing at my problem and getting it wrong at my expense.

Hi Jon, I haven't resolved it yet. Fortunately, so far I've been able to reset the boiler each time it's happened. I've been reluctant to throw money at an ageing boiler so close to spring (mine seems to break only when heating is needed) as my concerns were that a gas engineer might just be...

Actually, the numbers are easier to see on screen (I need glasses).....